2.11 Corset without cups

Draw a line on left part of your sheet: this is center back. At its upper part draw a perpendicular to the line, and mark the point where the two lines meet as a. Then, on center back line, find the following points:

a-w is back waist length (measurement n.10)

w-h is hip level (meas. n.22)

w-n is knee length (meas. n.23)

Square out towards the right from all of these points. This way you find waist line, hip line and knee line.

a-b = 1/2 bust circumference

Square down from point b and draw a line parallel to center back. This line is center front.

Extend the perpendicular lines coming from w, h and n points and find the matching points w1, h1 and n1 on center front line.

a-c (armhole depth) = (bust circumference/6) +6cm

Square out from c until you meet center front and name the point c1

When working on a bodice with 0 wearing ease, the armhole might be too tight and give fitting issues. To prevent this we widen the armhole section by reducing the section for across back and front width. So, draw

c-c2 = 1/2 across back (meas. n.15) -1,5cm

c1-c3 = 1/2 across front (meas. n.13) -0,5cm

Draw vertical lines (parallel to center front and center back lines) upwards starting from points c2 and c3. Name a1 the point closer to center back and b1 the point closer to center front.

Side seam position is a line parallel to center front and center back in classic styles and is determined by point c4:
c2-c4 = (c2-c3)/2

Draw the line parallel to center front and back going downward from c4. Name the points where the line meets waist, hip and knee line as w2, h2, n2 .

a-a2 = bust circ/12

w-a3 = center back waist length (meas. n.11).  Join points a2 to a3 to draw back neckline.

To find shoulder line and shoulder point you have to draw two arches as done in previous block, and mark their intersection:

• first arc is obtained by pointing on a2 and radius as shoulder top (meas. n.14)
• second arc is obtained by pointing on w and using back shoulder slope as radius (meas. n. 12). Draw an arc in direction to a1.

Where the two arches meet, mark point a4
Point a4 (shoulder point) can sit either on left or on right side of line a1-c2 (across back) – so do not worry if the position you get is different then the one in the photo!

Join points a2 to a4 with a straight line: this is shoulder line.
To draw armhole find the following points:

• from point a4 draw the perpendicular to line a1-c2. Name a5 the intersection point
• divide a5-c2 in half and name a6 the point you find
• draw the bisector of right angle in c2 and measure 2 to 3cm on this line, name the point a7.

To draw back armhole join points a4-a6-a7-c4 with a smooth curve.
The curve might not pass exactly through the points (especially through a7 – the line could be few millimeters away) as they help achieving a nice shape – but give the priority to a continuous and smooth line. 

Now let’s move to front.
Starting from point w1 measure upwards front waist length (meas. n.6) and mark point b1′.

To draw front neckline you need
b1′-b2 (on front) = a-a2 (on back)
b1′-b3 = (b1′-b2) +1cm

Draw lines perpendicular to center front and to front neckline span starting from b2 and b3.
Mark the point where those lines meet as b4, then draw the line from b4 to b1.

Divide the slanted line by 3, then draw the front neckline passing through these points: b2; 1/3 of line b4-b1; b3 with a smooth curve.

Then draw bust position:
b1′-c5 = bust height (meas. n. 7)
c5-c6 = 1/2 breast span (meas. n.8)

c5 point might sit above, below or exactly on top of c-c1 line: the position depends on vertical ease at armhole and personal measurements.

Join points b2 to c6 with a straight line. This is first leg of the dart.
Calculate the measurements (breast span/2)-1,5cm and find point c7 along b2-c6 line, measuring upwards from c6. This point represents chest level.

To draw dart depth at chest level you need to calculate half of the difference between bust circ and chest circ (do you remember meas. n.28?)
c7-c8 = (bust circ – chest circ)/2

Draw the second leg of the dart as a segment that starts from c6, passes through c8 and measures as much as c6-b2. Label c9 the point you find.

So dart legs are b2-c6 and c9-c6.

To find shoulder line on front, you should draw two arches as done on back and mark the point where they intersect:

• first measure the shoulder line on back as a2-a4, then use it as radius to draw an arc whose center is c9
• then, draw another arc starting from point c6 using front shoulder slope (meas. n. 9).

Where arches meet mark the point b5. Join points c9 to b5 with a straight line: this is front shoulder line.

To draw front armhole we need to find some further reference points:

• starting from point c3 along line c3-b1 move upwards as [(c2-c3)/3]+1cm and mark the point as b6
• draw the line b6-b7 = c7-c8 (meas. n.28) starting from b6 in direction of the armhole. This amount matches the volume lost with dart depth (did you notice that the measurement is the same?)
• draw the bisector of right angle on c3 and measure 2 to 3cm along it to find point b8

To draw front armhole connect points b5-b7-b8-c4 with a soft curve.
Curve might not pass exactly through points b7 and b8 – it is fine, the priority is given to a good shape.

To find underbust level, measure down from c5 along center front line as c6-c7, so
c5-c10 = c6-c7 

Draw a perpendicular to center front starting from c10 towards the left and mark c11 the point where underbust line meets center back.

The contoured block needs waist darts to follow the body shape. As done for the skirt, we calculate the total dart amount for the block (so for half of the body) as
Σdarts = (bust circ – waist circ)/2

Usually half of this amount is discarded in side seam, so
Σside = Σdarts/2

If Σside is bigger than 5cm the excess should be discarded in additional darts on front and/or on back as done in the skirt block, so:

• if Σside <5cm, w2-w3 = w2-w4 = Σside/2 (so, move from point w2 half of Σside on the left and a matching amount on the right and find w3 and w4)
• if Σside >5cm, w2-w3 = w2-w4 = 2,5cm (so move 2,5cm to find w3 and w4)
  If the slope is bigger then those 2,5cm, side seam might give fitting issues as diagonal wrinkles.

To find side seam points on hips (hip circ – bust circ)/4 should be calculated first. Then, add this number:

• to the right of point h2 for back, mark point h3
• to the left of point h2 for front, mark point h4

Square down from h3 until you meet knee line and mark n3, then connect c4-w3-h3-n3 for back side seam.

Square down from h4 to knee line to find n4 and connect points c4-w4-h4-n4 for front side seam.

On fitted dresses, we like the skirt better when it’s a bit tapered at the knee so we move 1,5cm inwards there
n3-n3′ = n4-n4′ = 1,5cm
then you can redraw the side seam ending to these points if you prefer the tapered skirt.

On contoured bodice, center back is not a continuous straight line as in previous block because it should follow back curve.

So first we need to find a8 (approx at shoulder blades level)
a3-a8 = (a3-c)/2
Then we move 1,5cm inwards from w and mark the new point as w5
Lastly we join points a8-w5-h with straight lines, blending slightly at w5.

Back and front waist dart depth is calculated with the formula
(Σdarts -Σside -1,5cm which we just took from center back)/2

Front dart center is given from the line coming downward from c6: from c6 point draw the parallel to center front and label c12 where the line meets underbust line, w6 the waist, h5 the hip line. Draw half of dart depth to the left and half to the right of point w6. Draw the same number to both sides of point c12. Dart upper apex is 2cm below c6 and dart lower apex is 5cm above h5. Front dart is shaped as a rocket in the upper section and as a triangle from waist down 🙂

Back dart position is halfway between points w5 and w2: mark it as w7. Starting from this point draw a parallel to center back and label c13 where the line hits c line and h6 where the line meets hip line. Draw dart points with half of dart depth to the left and half to the right of point w7. Dart upper apex is 2cm below c13 and dart lower apex is 5cm above h5. Back dart is shaped as a rhombus.

All corsets need bones – they can be in plastic or metal.

Metal ones can be full and flat (as the pinkish one in this photo) or spiral.

We do prefer using spiral continuous bones in corsets as they are more resistant yet very flexible. You can find them in a variety of width, we suggest the ones 0,5cm wide.

Bones are usually added to all seam lines.

Traditionally, corsets are closed on back with lacing and on front with a busk (shown here).

Busks are cone-shaped, spoon-shaped (as the silver one) or straight (more modern, as the white ones).

They are sewn in center front so the only visible part are hooks on one side and eyes on the other.

It is also possible to have different closures, as hook&eye or zippers, or whatever your imagination tells you 😉

Corsets usually have a back lacing closure that makes circumference slightly adjustable (you can squeeze more or less) but it is very hard to close it by yourself, even when back lacing is combined with front closure.

This is why in modern corsets created for shapewear, usually center back has a seam (or is cut on fold), corset is done with stretch fabric and has a front closure that makes wearing easier and the corset more comfortable. The last corset in this lesson has this type of construction with double front closure.

In this style we see some quite basic – and very common – panel lines on corset. Closure is a back visible zipper.

It is realized in leather, a common material for modern corsets.

Trace a copy of contoured bodice with basic darts. Then draw the new hemline 4cm above waistline on back and 1 to 2cm below waistline on center front. On front, make sure the transition from short to long is a smooth line. On back, draw the new neckline dropping 0,5 to 1,5cm from armpit point and square towards center back.

Draw the neckline raising 6 to 8cm from bust line in center front, square across then approx 3cm raise for shoulder strap position. Draw the new armhole line, then draw the panel lines making sure one slash line passes through bust point.

When drawing panel lines on front:

• make sure the discarded amount between slash lines matches the original dart depth at underbust
• discard 1cm more at neckline and armhole in each slash line to make corset tighter to chest.

Trace all panels separately marking grainlines perpendicular to original waist line.

On center front piece, manipulate shoulder dart closed, then smoothen the shape at bust.

Before sewing the corset, we suggest trueing all lines to make sure they have matching length.

To draw this waist cincher, first trace a copy of contoured bodice.

This corset has center back on fold or with a zipper and center front with lacing. Center front extends above underbust between breasts and extends slightly below waistline.

Drop 0,5 to 1cm from underbust line on side seams, then on back square across to center. On front, draw the line from underbust then curve it upwards in center front raising 5 to 7cm from underbust.

Drop 2 to 4cm in center front and draw a smooth line to waistline on side seam.

Draw slanted panel lines on front and discard 3cm at underbust and waistline to mantain the fit.

Trace all pieces separate, trace grainlines perpendicular to waistline.

We suggest creating a facing for center front or cutting it in 2 layers to have center finished when opening eyelets for lacing.

This is a super classic corset. You can draw it starting from a basic  contoured block or you can create a new one reducing waist few cm more (up to 6cm negative ease at waistline – even through we suggest reducing it by 4cm).

First, draw neckline and hemline on front and back. You can have them straight or slightly curved downwards at hemline, shaping neckline as sweetheart.

On back, discard 2cm all the way through for lacing – then draw panel lines discarding 1,5 to 2cm in side cuts. When drawing panel lines, overlap the side ones by 2cm at hemline. Try keeping panels even in width on back waistline.

On front, draw the panel lines using original darts as slash line position for first cut. On it, discard 3cm from waistline to hemline.
Draw the other slash line on front discarding 1cm at waist.
On both slash lines, discard 1cm at neckline.

Trace separate copies, then smoothen lines at bust.

True all lines making sure they have matching length and checking that neckline and hemline have a nice shape.

We suggest creating a vertical facing for both center back lacing and center front busk closure and finishing neckline and hemline with self fabric binding.

This is in between a corset and a top, so you could skip boning on it.

It has a center back closure with visible zipper. To draft the pattern, start from a contoured bodice – if you want to make it more comfortable, we suggest adding 2cm ease at waist circumference.

First, draw the new hemline starting from waistline in center back, raising 2cm at side seam and dropping 4cm in center front.

On back, shape center by reducing 2cm at waist and 1cm at neckline, then draw the vertical slash line and discard 2cm at waist in it.
Draw the new back neckline and back armhole, then create a 1cm dart on shoulder straps that prevents it from gaping at shoulder.

On front, draw the new armhole and neckline, then create a 1cm dart on shoulder strap to prevent it from gaping at neckline. Widen shoulder dart by 1cm at neckline. Draw the slash line on front discarding 3cm at underbust even though lines are curved. Lastly, draw the slash line from bust line to slanted line for manipulating shoulder dart.

Trace all separate pieces, then close shoulder dart on center front opening its volume at the new slash line.

Trace shoulder pieces together at shoulder line – their grainline is front one.

For this corset, you can start from a basic contoured block or you can draft a new one reducing waist by 2 to 6cm more.

It features a double closure: back lacing and front busk. You can add bones to slash lines and create a cording in the other panels, not to make the corset too heavy (originally, they would use whale bones but nowadays we can’t find anything that light and flexible).

First, draw the new neckline dropping 1cm from armpit, then raise a few cm towards center back and draw the sweetheart neckline in front.
Then redraw side seam reducing 1cm further at waistline (if you haven’t done it as a new block). Waist to hip line is drawn slightly fuller/rounder than usual.

On center back, discard 1,5 or 2cm all the way through for lacing, then draw the panel lines as shown discarding at waist as much as the original dart width.

On front, draw the slash lines as shown discarding an even amount to original darts at waistline and underbust line (this is why you see the fisheye dart in the shorter cuts). Erase original shoulder dart and discard 1cm at neckline in each slash line.

Trace all panels separate, marking grainlines on all of them.

We suggest to create cording on wider pieces of fabric, then cutting them to the right shape (as sewing the channels might reduce the piece measurements).

Bones are usually added to seam lines and self fabric used to create bonecases.

A modern use of corsets is to create shapewear, for example to be used under ceremony dresses or to support back in some types of pain.

This type of corset has a front closure so it is easy to wear and is usually realized in power mesh or other stretch fabrics.

To draft the pattern, we suggest working with a contoured block with zero ease, then creating the separate pieces and lastly reducing them by coefficient k calculated as the horizontal stretch of fabric (remember the ratio non stretch piece divided by stretched piece that we saw in the lesson on negative ease?).

First, draw the new neckline dropping 2 to 3cm from armhole. On front, draw a circle with radius as half of bust distance minus 1cm to visualize breast position, then draw the neckline passing below the circle in center front and overlapping the side of the circle by a couple of cm on its side to have a breast lifting effect.

Erase back dart by discarding half of it from back side seam and half from front side seam. Keep front dart as a slash line.

Trace all pieces separate, then get a piece of the fabric you will be using and calculate horizontal coefficient k.

Get a 20cm piece of fabric and pull it crosswise (from selvedge to selvedge), then measure the stretched piece. E.g. 20cm become 24cm.
Calculate coefficient k as non stretched measurement divided by stretched measurement, e.g. k = 20/24 = 0,83

Redraw all pieces multiplying their horizontal measurement by coefficient k.

For this type of corset, we suggest cutting 4 front pieces to have a double front closure (inner and outer one for more support).