2.12 Corset with cups

On a copy of front contoured block, find the following points.

1. draw a circle whose center is c6 and radius is half of bust distance minus 1cm, so (c5-c6)-1cm
2. find points c10 and c5′ on bust line
   c6-c10 = c6-c5′
3. drop a perpendicular from c6 to waistline and find point w6. Measure 1,5cm* on both left and right of point w6 and mark them as w8 and w9
4. raise perpendiculars from w8 and w9 until you meet underbust line, label the new points w8′ and w9′
5. square up from c10 to meet c line, then move 1cm to left and label the point as c11. Draw a curve from c11 to w8′. This is the wire/bodice line
6. c11-c13 = 1,5cm to the left. Draw a curve from c13 to w8′. This is the cup line
7. widen shoulder dart by 1cm to the left of point c8. Join points c7 to c5, c8 to c13. These lines are cup neckline. Then draw a curve from c5 to w9′, this is cup line, while the curve you draw from c5′ to w9′ is wire/bodice line.

See in the following example the pieces to be traced separate.

*1,5cm is an adjustable measurement as it depends on your bust/waist/hip difference, as we saw with dart calculation in previous lesson. You can adjust the dart measurement at waist and underbust as needed to match your circumferences

For this type of corset, trace a copy of the previous block up to waistline.

It features a 3-pieces cup with a T-cut that is very flattering on breasts and a rock effect given by all vertical pieces held together by lacing.

We recommend adding a bone to each side of the eyelets to prevent the fabric from wobbling at the lacing line. For a softer effect, you can use the same pattern joining the pieces with plain seams and getting a ‘Dolce and Gabbana’ type of classic corset. It would be great adding a gathered full skirt 😉

After drawing the basic cup as explained in step 1, change slightly the slash lines for front dart moving them by 1 or 2cm towards center at the waist.
A slanted line toward center front gives the illusion of a smaller waist – highlights the hourglass silhouette.

Then, trace all pieces:

• center back
• side back panel
• side front panel (up to the red -bodice/underwire – line)
• center front (up to the red -bodice/underwire – line)
• upper cup (piece number 1, marked in red, to the outer lines, closing shoulder dart)
• bottom side cup (piece number 2, marked in blue)
• bottom center cup (piece number 3, marked in blue).

Here you see all pieces separate. They all have the original grainline perpendicular to waistline other than top cup: on this piece, draw the grain parallel to neckline to prevent it from stretching.

Smoothen lines if needed, then true all lines together to make sure measurements match. This is the order for checking pieces:

1. all bodice pieces together
2. all cup pieces together
3. cup and bodice at underwire line.

This classic corset has wide shoulder straps, multiple panels in bodice and a 2 pieces cup with horizontal slash line.

The only closure is back lacing – meaning that it won’t be super easy to wear, but very dramatic!

Trace the basic corset with cup, then:

1. draw the new hemline (high on back, low on front) and back opening for lacing – taking 1,5cm at back bust line to zero at hemline
2. draw slash line for center back panel and shorten dart to new hemline – you can create a 1cm overlap for a more flattering look
3. draw back neckline, shoulder strap 3cm wide and armhole
4. on front, draw a matching shoulder strap, then draw armhole and neckline
5. on cup, draw the slash line for the horizontal cut
6. on front bodice, draw the new panel lines making sure the total amount taken at waist matches the dart width at waist itself
7. on both front and back, you can curve slightly inwards (as parenthesis) the side seam from bust to waist.

Trace all separate pieces manipulating darts in cup pieces and mark the grainlines and waistline with notches.

The only piece that does not keep the original grainline is the upper cup, as seen in the previous example.

Smoothen lines, then true all line to check measurements to match.

In this example, we see a simple corset with gathers detail on cups and wide shoulder strap.

It also has a shaped hemline that is perfect for high waisted trousers and skirts.

Trace a copy of basic corset with cup, then

1. on back and front, draw the new hemline
2. on back, draw the new hemline and shoulder strap 2 to 2,5cm wide, draw the new armhole
3. match shoulder strap measurement on front and draw the new neckline and armhole
4. draw the slash line con cup to manipulate darts volume into gathers
5. draw slash lines on front bodices making them slanted towards center front for a more flattering look. Redraw front waist dart making sure you keep the original width at waist and underbust, then keep the width all the way down to hemline

Trace all copies separate, then merge side back panel to side front panel to create a unique piece. Close darts on cup pieces separating top and bottom by 1 or 2cm and redrawing the whole shaping marking gathers at center and side lines.

True all lines to make sure pieces match.

This is a slightly shorter corset with a vintage look due to bullet cups, very trendy in the 50s. The shape is highlighted by parallel seam lines that reinforce the fabric and accent the ‘cone’ shape.

Start by tracing a copy of your basic corset with cups.

1. draw the horizontal slash line at underbust
2. draw the new hemline 2 to 4cm above waistline
3. draw parallel lines 2cm away from side seam on both back and front to create a unique a side panel
4. draw a line parallel to center back and 2 or 3cm inwards
5. on front bodice, make waist dart slanted towards center front keeping width consistent.

Trace all separate pieces as shown:

• center back
• back upper and lower panels with dart closed
• side panel (merging back and front ones)
• front panel
• center front
• cup, closing shoulder dart and opening its volume at underbust – this gives a slight bullet shape – you can highlight it by slashing more at underbust.