2.6 Different styles of bra

In this bra, there are gathers at center front cup obtained with a basic dart manipulation, and a lace trim is added to neckline and side band.

On a copy of your basic bra, draw the cup and band lines with the new proportions: more open neckline and narrower back band.

Trace the separate pieces as usual, then cut through cup slash line and close shoulder and underbust dart opening a matching volume in center front. Mark it with gathers.

This is the final pattern. If you work with stretch fabric as cotton jersey and no foam cup, when fitting the bra you might need to reduce the cup slightly as if you were applying negative ease.

For a triangle bra with wire, the construction is pretty similar but the main difference is that here a lace fabric is being used, and scalloped edge is used at neckline. We need to adjust the pattern for that.

On a copy of your basic bra, draw the cup and band lines with the new proportions: lower neckline in center front, higher point for shoulder strap and narrower back band.

Trace the separate pieces as usual, then cut through cup slash line and close shoulder dart opening a matching volume at underbust dart.

When dart is manipulated, redraw neckline as a straight line to use the lace scalloped edge.

You could straighten also underbust line to have scallops there too as shown in the photo. Anyhow, we suggest to have a one-piece band (while usually we have a side seam) not to interrupt the lace design.

In this bra, the cup has more of a straight neckline quite low at nipple and the bridge extends downwards.

To draft the patter, trace a copy of basic bra and redraw the cup lower – cup edge can be 3 to 4cm above bust point.

Redraw the bridge and band extending them downwards by 4 to 6cm from underwire midpoint.

Trace the pieces separately, then on cup slash through underbust dart, close shoulder dart and mark the new volume as gathers.

This bra was realized in silk satin and we recommend adding a foam cup for shaping nicely the gathers.

This style of bra combines a reinforced bottom with a sheer top cup, and has lace trim on all edges.

To draft the pattern, trace a copy of your basic bra and then redraw the slash lines for cup as shown: there’s a dart in direction to center front that is 2 to 3cm wide and is needed to balance the very short bridge.

Trace separate copies, then close all darts on cup pieces.

Smoothen the lines, then make sure to true them making sure that the cup bottom line matches exactly the underwire line on bridge and band.

This type of cup has 3 pieces and is the one that would fit better bigger breasts.

The horizontal slash line is passing above the nipple as the bra has no foam nor lining, so the seam would not be itchy or annoying.

Trace a copy of basic pattern, change the style lines as shown and creating an additional dart 2cm wide in center front ending to bust point.

Trace all pieces separately, then close darts on uppermost piece.

Note the grainline marked: all pieces have the classic grain other than the top one, where grain is marked parallel to neckline to prevent it from stretching too much 😉

A strapless bra usually has a higher bridge and cup to be tighter to the chest and breast.

It can be helpful to add silicone elastic to neckline and band upper and lower edges.

Trace a copy of basic bra, draw the new cup neckline and then draw the slash lines to divide cup in 4 pieces.

The additional 1cm to shoulder dart here is added to the other side just to keep pieces n.2 and 3 more balanced in volume.

Add a 2cm dart from center front to bust point.

Trace all pieces separately. We suggest adding lining and a foam cup because having lots of seam lines in the cup would not be comfortable right on the skin. Lining can have just 2 pieces, 1+2 and 3+4 merged together.

For a 50s bra, cups are given extra depth. They should be sewn in stiff fabric or foam fabric to hold the shape.

Also, notice that vintage bras are also higher at side, and that side seam is placed close to the cup.

Trace a copy of basic pattern, change the style lines as shown and creating an additional dart 2cm wide in center front ending to bust point.

Neckline is much higher than usual and the slash line is at bust level.

Trace the separate pieces as usual, then cut through cup slash lines and close shoulder and additional dart on upper piece.

Add 0,5 to 1cm at bust point on all the cup pieces blending to zero at center and side.

For fuller breasts, this is a very good pattern as the side band offers additional support. In the example on the photo, cup is realized in lace while the cup band is in satin, a non stretch fabric that holds more.

On a copy of your basic bra, draw the cup and band lines with the new proportions and the additional 2cm dart at center front.

The power band on the cup side extends upwards and connects to the shoulder strap.

Trace the separate pieces as usual, then cut through cup slash line and close shoulder, additional and underbust dart reshaping the separate pieces.

Trace band in 2 separate pieces (front and back) and front bridge.

For a nursing bra, front has 2 layers that overlap to make breastfeeding easier without being too naked.

We suggest using cotton jersey for the biggest comfort. You would need special hooks to hold the outer cup in position and making the opening easy.

On a copy of your basic bra, draw the cup and band lines with the new proportions: the cup has more of a triangle shape (red lines) while the inner band has a similar shape but a bit higher (green lines).

On the cup, create the additional 2cm dart in center front.

Trace the separate pieces as usual, then cut through cup horizontal slash line and close shoulder, additional and underbust dart. Reshape top and bottom cup pieces to smoothen the lines, then trace the inner cup piece with darts closed.

Make sure to mark notches on front bridge to know the overlap when sewing. Shoulder strap attaches to the inner cup.