2.7 Block with darts for slip dress, babydoll, camisole

Garment fit depends on the ease allowance added to the pattern: no ease gives a skinny fit, a small ease (4cm on circumference) gives a slim fit and increasing the ease you get a more relaxed fit, until oversized garments (20+ cm ease on circumference).

See in black the basic block with zero ease and in red the expansion lines where ease is added to calculations.

When drafting the pattern, you should divide the ease in quarter, or in half, as the circumference it relates to.
E.g. consider a slip dress where ease on bust circumference is 10cm. When drafting the pattern, you are asked to draw a line whose length is bust circ/4 + ease on bust/4 –> it means you need to add 2,5cm to quarter of bust circ

Draw a vertical line on left part of the sheet. This is center back.

Draw a perpendicular towards left from highest point and label it as a.

a-w = back waist length (mis.10) 

a-c = (bust circ/6 +8cm) + ease on armhole depth (we suggest 2cm)

a-b = bust circ/2 + ease on bust circ/2 

w-h = hip level

w-f = knee length

Square down from point b , the line is parallel to center back and is center front. Extend the horizontal lines until they meet center front and label the points c1, w1, h1, f1.

c-c4 = c1-c4  so c4 is halfway between c and c1 and is the highest point in side seam. Drop a perpendicular from c4 and label point w2, h2, f2.

a-a1 = across back/2 + ease on back width/2
Drop a perpendicular from a1 and label point c2.

a-a2 = bust circ/12

w-a3 = center back waist length
Join points a2 to a3 drawing back neckline.

To find shoulder line and shoulder point you have to draw two arches and mark their intersection:

• first arc is obtained by pointing on a2 and radius as shoulder top (meas. n.14)
• second arc is obtained by pointing on w and using back shoulder slope as radius (meas. n. 12). Draw an arc in direction to a1.

Where the two arches meet, mark point a4
Point a4 (shoulder point) can sit either on left or on right side of line a1-c2 (across back) – so do not worry if the position you get is different then the one in the photo!

Join points a2 to a4 with a straight line: this is shoulder line.
To draw armhole find the following point: from point a4 draw the perpendicular to line a1-c2. Name a5 the intersection point.

a5-a6 = a6-c2

To draw back armhole join points a4-a6-c4 with a smooth curve.
The curve might not pass exactly through the points as they help achieving a nice shape – but give the priority to a continuous and smooth line. 

w2-w3 = 2,5cm 

h-h3 = hip circ/4 + ease on hip circ/4

f-f3 = h-h3

Join points c4, w3, h3 and f3 drawing back side seam.

Now move to front and measure up from waistline
w1-b1′ = front waist length

b1′-b2 = as a-a2 measured on back (neckline span)

b1′-b3 = (b1′-b2)+1 cm
Draw front neckline by joining points b2 to b3.

b-b1 = across front/2 + ease on front width/2
Square down from b1 to find c3.

b1′-c5 = bust height

c5-c6 = breast distance/2

Draw a straight line joining points b2 to c6.
Move up along the line, starting from point c6, as breast distance/2  minus 1,5cm, so
c6-c7 = breast distance/2 -1,5cm

Then we have to find dart width, which is
c7-c8 = (bust circ – chest circ)/2

Draw the second dart leg: it’s a new line that starts from c6, passes through c8 and whose measurement is even to c6-b2.
Label c9 the upper edge of this new line.

b2-c6 and c9-c6 represent your bust dart.

To find shoulder line on front, first draw an arc pointing in c9 using back shoulder top a2-a4 as radius. Then draw a second arc in direction to the first pointing on bust point c6 and using front shoulder slope as radius.
Where the two arches intersect label point b5.

Join points c9 to b5 drawing front shoulder line.

Along segment c3-b1 move up from c3 as (c6-c7)-2cm and label b6 the new point.
Square left from b6 to balance dart width, so
b6-b7 = c7-c8

To draw front armhole join points b5-b7 -c4 with a smooth curve.
The curve might not pass exactly through the points  (especially through b7) as they help achieving a nice shape – but give the priority to a continuous and smooth line.

To find underbust line, measure down from bust point
c5-c10 = c6-c7
Square left from c10 until intersecting center back, label the new point c11.

w2-w4 = w2-w3 = 2,5cm

h1-h4 = hip circ/4 + ease on hip circ/4

f1-f4 = h1-h4

Draw front side seam joining points c4, w4, h4 and f4.

Now let’s switch to some practical examples.

Here is a simple but flattering slip dress that combines a dart manipulation with gathers at waist and details are added when sewing, as the slit on the side and the lace trim.

Silk satin, crepe, viscose..there are a bunch of possibilities!

To draft the pattern, adjust your basic block to 4 to 8cm ease at bust circumference and 10 to 16cm ease at hip circumference.

Then, square up from hip line so waist circ is even to hip one.

Draw the new front and back neckline, then widen shoulder dart by 1cm at neckline.

Square down from bust point and from back strap position drawing the slash line for adding volume to bodice.

Trace separate copies, then cut through slash lines on bodice.

This dart manipulation is a bit different than the ones we saw up to now: here, you are supposed to open volume at waistline until the bodice waist measurement matches skirt waist measurement. When doing it on front, pivot at bust point first and shift dart volume to waist, then – if you need to add more volume – add from side seam as shown by the red line. When doing it on back, pivot at neckline, match the volume at waist to front and add the remaining part from side seam.

When sewing the slip dress, we suggest to join bodice and skirt first and then adding an elastic or drawstring to waistline.

This camisole combines velveteen and a lace front panel – but of course you can play with different fabric combination.

If your materials stretch, you can adjust the basic block to as little as 0 to 2cm ease on bust and 2 to 4cm ease on hip circ, while if fabrics have zero stretch we suggest 4 to 8cm ease at bust and 4 to 10cm ease at hips.

First, draw the new hemline at hip line.

Then, draw the new neckline on back and front and widen shoulder dart by 1cm at front neckline.

Then, draw the plunging neckline from shoulder strap point to waistline in center front for the lace detail. Make sure line passes through bust point.

Blend side seams adding a little ease (1cm) at waist line.

Cut through the lines or trace separate pieces, then close shoulder dart on center front panel.

If using a scalloped lace, straighten the line and add seam allowance to center front panel as shown in the photo.

Let’s have a look at a babydoll construction with underbust cut and flared skirt.

It can be a romantic pj, and you can play with different fabric combination – here you see a scalloped lace in bodice and silk satin in skirt.

Trace a copy of your basic block with zero to very small wearing ease (max 2 to 4cm on bust circumference).

1. first draw underbust line straight and a parallel 1,5 to 2cm below it for the waistband.
2. then draw the triangle cup, draw ‘dart-like’ discard at underbust on both sides, 1,5cm wide, then draw additional darts 1cm at shoulder dart and perpendicular from neckline to bust point. Draw the slash line for manipulating dart in cup, from bust point to underbust parallel to neckline.
3. draw the new hemline 20cm below hipline, then flare skirt by 2 to 4cm from sides connecting hem to underbust.
4. divide underbust line and hemline by 4 and draw the slash lines evenly spaced.

Trace all pieces separate, then close all darts on cup pieces. Pay attention to the grain: side cup has grainline parallel to original center front, center cup has grainline parallel to neckline to prevent it from stretching – and to use the scallop.

Trace waistband as a single piece.

On skirt, add 4cm in each slash line at hem. Redraw front and back skirt, both will be cut on fabric fold.

In this slip dress we see the underbust cut matched with a lace waistband and a slightly flared skirt with a bias cut. Darts in cup are manipulated as gathers.

To draft the pattern, we suggest starting from a basic block with zero to small (2cm) ease at bust circumference, 2cm at waist and 4 to 6cm at hip.

1. first, trace a copy of your basic block. Draw waist line and underbust line, then draw the slash line at underbust raising it by 4 to 6cm in center front.
2. then, draw neckline and armhole on front and back bodices dropping armpit by 1 to 3cm. Draw also and additional 1cm dart at neckline on shoulder dart. Draw the slash line for manipulating dart at underbust.
3. on skirt, flare from sides by 6 to 12cm and redraw the hemline at right angle.

Trace the separate pieces:

• back bodice
• front bodice, with shoulder + additional darts closed and their volume opened at underbust, then marked as gathers
• front and back waistband, both cut on lace fold
• back and front skirt, tracing full copies of them to cut on bias for a better fit.

This romantic nightgown has a vintage allure – I think it’s a combination of the lace curved cut, gathers and colors.

Draw a basic block with darts with 2 to 6cm ease at bust, 2cm at waist and 4 to 6cm at hips.

1. on a copy of your basic block, first mark underbust and draw the curved line that shapes lace at underbust itself. Then draw a parallel line 2,5 to 3,5cm from it.
2. draw also front neckline, then widen shoulder dart by 1cm at neckline and draw the slash line from bust point to underbust curved line.
3. on back, draw neckline and a parallel 2,5 to 3,5cm below it, then draw a couple more lines at even distance and continue all lines on front. Draw also shoulder strap in matching position to front.
4. extend the bottom curved underbust line past center front by 10 to 20cm to add volume for front gathers on skirt.
5. still on skirt, flare 5 to 8cm from sides and connect to underbust line

Trace all pieces separately, you get:

• center front bodice, with shoulder + additional dart manipulated in the new slash line
• 3 side front panels
• 3 back bodice panels
• back skirt
• front skirt
• front underbust to shoulder strap merged to back strap to create a single piece.

This is the most challenging pattern/sewing project, if you want to give it a try! Pay attention to checking all curves and try to be extra precise.

This is a super easy yet very flattering construction.

To draft the pattern, start from a basic block with zero to 4cm ease on all circumferences according to the fit you prefer. Add waist darts to the construction by balancing the measurement on side seam 😉

First draw the neckline on both front and back, then draw underbust line and widen dart at underbust to have it fitted to your circumference.

Then draw the princess cut on front and back, square down from dart apexes.

Flare from side seams and princess cuts by 5 to 15cm each. Flare center front and backtoo.

Your new pattern is ready! You just have to true the lines and smoothen bottom shape (the more you flared, the more adjustment in shape you’ll need).

Smoothen also princess line at bust, add seam allowances and you’re good to go!

This is a very trendy style, and quite a basic construction.

It’s all about having a flowy fabric and adding gathers 😉

Create a block with darts and zero ease to start from, then draw underbust line on it.

Draw a line 3cm below underbust for drawstring merging at underbust line before center front, then on front draw the cup:

• widen shoulder dart by 1cm at neckline
• draw additional dart-like discards in between cup and underbust: make them 2cm wide at the edges
• shape bottom cup rounded and draw the slash line from bust point to underbust for manipulating darts.

Draw the underbust gathered band 6 to 10cm wide and extend it 3 to 5cm past center front for overlap.

Trace all pieces separate, then:

• on cup, cut through slash line, close shoulder + additional dart, mark the new volume as gathers
• underbust remains as is
• bottom band is divided in straight pieces and separated by half or 3/4 of their width (eg. divide in pieces that are 4cm wide and add 2 to 3cm in each slash line). Redraw it marking gathers on top line.

This slip dress has an interesting (and challenging) slanted cut separating two different materials and an open back.

To draw the pattern, start from a basic block with 0 to 4cm ease on circumferences.

1. draw underbust line, then on front draw the cup widening shoulder dart by 1cm at neckline. Draw also the slash line bust to underbust for manipulating dart
2. draw the back neckline from waist to armpit, then mark the underbust line that splits upper back in 2 pieces
3. on back, draw a line parallel to the previous that splits tulle and satin, then continue the line with the same slope all the way to center front. You might need to draw a few lines to find a nice slope and proportions – it is normal
4. flare hemline by 5 to 10cm on each side.

Trace all pieces separate, then close shoulder dart on front bodice.

You can keep the original grainline as shown here or you can cut the satin part on bias – for a more challenging sewing experience!