2.3 Bodysuits

An easy but classy dart manipulation is the cowl neckline: this is perfect for jerseys or lycra. You could use this as a top with jeans in summer or under a cardigan or blazer in colder seasons.

Let’s see how to draft the pattern.

Trace a copy of your basic bodysuit, then:

• drop 3 to 5cm at armhole along side seam on back and front
• square towards center back to draw back neckline
• on front, measure up from bust 8 to 12cm then square across for front neckline. Stop 2cm before armhole and redraw it to the new point on side seam
• measure 8 to 12cm down from waistline to find higher point of leg opening, then draw it without changing the crotch width
• blend the angle at waist adding a little ease.

Draw 3 slash lines on front, perpendicular to center front: one is at bust height and 2 are above it.

Cut through the front slash lines, close shoulder dart and open a matching volume at bust. Use the other 2 lines to add pleats leaving 3 to 5cm space..

Trace a copy of the pieces separate:

• back (shoulder strap position is at 2/3 of neckline measurement)
• front bodice, which is extended upwards by at least 6cm to create a built-in facing
• front brief
• gusset, shaped as the last 10 to 12cm of front brief.
  Gusset is usually cut in cotton jersey for comfort and hygiene.

With this style, we’ll see some different style lines.

The halter neckline is very flattering for lots of bodytypes, from small to full bust, and the vertical princess lines elongate the silhouette.

You could sew a swimsuit out of this pattern either in one fabric or matching 2 or more different fabrics/colors.

Trace a copy of your basic bodysuit, then:

• drop 2 to 8cm from armhole along side seam on both back and front
• drop 6 to 10cm (or more, if you want more coverage) from waist and draw leg opening, trying not to change gusset width
• draw back neckline shaping it as half U from waistline or few cm above to new point on side seam
• redraw back dart slanted so it works as a slash line, then add the horizontal slash line
• on front, draw the halter neckline with the band being 1, 5 to 3cm wide at shoulder point and extend it upwards as the back neckline measurement
• on front, draw a new dart more on the side that works as slash line. Absorb in it both the small bust dart and the 2cm waist dart
• smoothen curves at waist.

Trace copies of all separate pieces:

• 2 center back pieces cut on fold
• side back panel
• side front panel
• center front upper piece – trace it and tape dart closed
• side front panel
• then trace a copy of bottom part of front (last 10 or 12cm) to create the inner gusset.

In this pattern we combine a waist cut with brazilian brief and deep V neckline on both front and back.

You can combine this top with any of the brief construction that we saw in previous lesson.

Trace a copy of basic pattern, then:

• on back, discard waist dart from center, then move 3cm outwards at bottom point and redraw center back as a slanted line
• raise 2 to 5cm on leg opening, then redraw back brief and merge the line to front crotch
• on back and front drop 1 to 3cm from armpit on side seam, Approx at half back width, change the angle of the line – this point is shoulder strap position
• on front, drop the same measurement on side seam, then draw the strap position raising 10 t0 14cm and moving inwards 4 to 6cm
• on front, draw the V neckline to underbust level. To draw it, keep shoulder dart closed in a temporary way to make sure you get a good line. Then open it and draw an additional dart 1cm wide from bust point perpendicular to neckline
• on front, draw the panel line shifted on the side and then draw a slash line from bust point to it – this line is needed to manipulate shoulder dart + the additional 1cm dart. Absorb waist dart into the panel line.

Trace all separate copies, then tape shoulder and additional dart on front opening a matching volume in the new slash line: now you have to choose what to do with this front dart. There are 2 options:

• discard half of the dart from top and half from bottom of center front piece (shown here – see the red lines?) – recommended for smaller breasts
• keep the dart volume and ease it in the seam with side front panel – recommended for bigger breasts, as this option keeps the dart volume. You should create some very soft gathers where dart is until the 2 lines that will be joined have the same measurement.

True all other pieces, add seam allowance and your pattern is ready!

Another classic and very flattering bodysuit is the one with triangle cups and underbust cut.

Let’s see how to draft the pattern.

One point you should be careful about: when drawing triangle lines, make sure sides are straight if you want to use a scalloped lace as shown in the photo!

Trace a copy of your bodysuit, then draw underbust line dropping from bust point as half of breasts distance (or half the distance minus some cm). Then

• on back and front, raise 3 to 8cm at side seam on leg opening and redraw both curves trying not to change gusset width
• on front, 12 to 14cm from bottom line, draw a perpendicular to center front to identify gusset
• on back and front, reshape waist darts so they are 3cm wide at underbust and blend to zero at leg opening
• on front, draw the triangle cup making sure side lines are straight. We suggest to pick the apex at least 10 to 12cm above bust point, pointing roughly halfway in shoulder line. As for triangle width, the best is to measure on yourself the coverage you prefer. Raise bottom side points of the triangle by 2 to 3cm, then draw an additional dart 1cm wide from bust point perpendicular to neckline as done in the previous pattern.

Trace all copies separate, then close the additional 1cm dart in center cup.

On cup pieces, the grainline is placed parallel to straight side to be able to cut lace with scalloped edge, in all other pieces grain is perpendicular to waistline.

In this style, we suggest joining gusset to back and adding hook&eye closure or snap buttons to the line between front and gusset, and to make gusset in 2 layers of fabric for hygienic reasons (best would be if the inner layer is cotton jersey) 😉

A different type of bodysuit is this romantic pj, that can be done with some cotton or viscose jersey and lace trim.

We’ll see how to create an overlap and how to add gathers and elasticated waist.

To create this pattern, I would consider checking the crotch length and eventually increasing it slightly (remember that it was reduced in % as all other lengths) to increase comfort.

Also, notice that the pattern includes waist darts but we are ignoring them – basically dart volume is giving a few cm ease at waist that will be absorbed by the elastic.

To draft the pattern, trace a copy of your basic bodysuit, then:

• draw a line 2 to 5cm below waistline: this is the end of the bodice and the overlap is needed for comfort & style
• drop 2 to 4cm from armpit along side seam, then draw the back neckline dropping 1 to 2cm more in center back
• draw front neckline raising 8 to 10cm from bust point and moving 4 to 6cm inwards from armhole to find the apex, then draw a straight line to bottom bodice line extended 10 to 14cm past center front
• draw an additional 1cm dart from bust point perpendicular to neckline
• redraw back brief with a brazilian cut raising 6 to 10cm from leg opening, then from these points square up to the waist
• square down from new side seam point to bottom bodice
• divide waist line by 3 and draw vertical slash lines on brief to add volume to bottom line.

Trace bodice and brief pieces separately, then:

• on brief, cut through slash lines and add 2 to 4cm to bottom line pivoting at waist point
• on front bodice, square down from bust line, then cut through the line and close shoulder dart and additional 1cm dart shifting their volume into the new line.

Make sure you keep center front notch on bodice to know the overlap.

In this style we see some further manipulations: there’s a plunging V neckline, scalloped lace and a yoke at brief with string.

Waist dart is discarded from side seam.

You can either use a scalloped lace or a plain lace fabric and matching scalloped trim attached afterwards.

To draft the pattern, start by tracing a copy of your basic bodysuit:

• draw a horizontal line parallel to waist 2 to 5cm below it
• draw underbust line, then draw a 3cm dart at underbust on front blending to zero at bust and to the parallel line below waist
• draw back neckline from underbust level at side seam to 1 to 2cm below it in center back
• draw front triangle cup and neckline, then draw an additional 1cm dart from bust point to neckline
• on both back and front, draw the yoke line dropping 10 tp 14cm in center front and back and a little less at side seam
• draw the brief line picking a point 4 to 6cm away from center front at yoke line, then draw front leg opening up to 1 to 2cm at bottom line
• on back, draw the string line matching measurement to front and to 0,5cm at back yoke line.

Trace all pieces separate, tape closed the additional dart in center front cup.

You can either create halter strap with lace trim or create a cross on back.

In this style we combine Halter neckline with a front cutout and different materials.

It is more evident that it uses lace fabric, mesh and a lace trim to finish all edges.

To draft the pattern, start by tracing a copy of basic bodysuit:

• back dart is discarded from center, then back is shaped as brazilian brief
• on side seam, drop 2 to 4cm from armpit point, then draw back neckline. Mark a matching point along front side seam
• on both back and front, measure down from waist 6cm along side seam and draw the new leg opening, reducing gusset width to 3cm. On front, draw an additional horizontal slash line
• on front bodice, create a 3cm waist dart balancing it at side seam, then measure 3cm from center front along the neckline and draw the halter neck
• draw the front cutout from bust level to waist line.

Trace all pieces separate, then on front bodice cut through waist dart and manipulate shoulder dart volume in it. Drop dart apex by 2cm to avoid pointy breasts.

Back is made up of 2 pieces (bodice and brief with center back seam), front is made of 3 pieces (bodice and 2 brief parts, all cut on fabric fold).

This style combines a fuller top with dolman sleeves and gathers to a lace middle section – but you can sew it in any combination of fabrics.

To draft the pattern, trace a copy of basic bodysuit, then:

• draw the horizontal slash lines at underbust and 4 to 7cm below the waist to identify 3 parts (bodice, middle section, brief)
• on bodice and middle section add a 1cm button stand
• on bodice, widen neckline by 1 to 3cm at center back, 2 to 4cm on shoulder line and draw a V neckline to underbust
• on front neckline, draw an additional 1cm dart from bust point perpendicular to neckline
• on front band back bodice, extend shoulder line up to 15 to 16cm, then widen 2 to 4cm at armpit level and draw the short dolman sleeves
• on front and back bodice, draw 2 slash lines evenly spaced along the shoulder line to add volume
• on brief, raise 8 to 10cm and redraw leg opening and draw the slash line for gusset 12 to 14cm above bottom front.

Trace all pieces separately, then:

• on front bodice, tape shoulder dart and additional dart closed shifting all volume to underbust
• on front and back bodices, cut through slash lines and add 2 to 4cm in each line (you can add a bit more to underbust and a little less to shoulder line)
• on brief, cut through front gusset line and merge the piece to back lengthening it. We suggest to add hook&eye closure or snap buttons 😉