2.2 Briefs
This week, let’s have a roundup on briefs. We’ll see a bunch of different construction, from something retro with full coverage to something cheeky. In next lessons, we’ll also learn how to adapt these patterns to different materials, for example to scalloped lace.
Before starting drafting a brief pattern, we suggest to choose the material you will be using and to test its stretch – you want to make sure that the reduction you used for your basic bodysuit works for this material too.
Brief construction
Draw a vertical line on left side of the sheet. This line is center back.
Draw a perpendicular to its upper edge and label the intersection point w.
w-n = crotch length *y
n – f = (hip circ/10) *y
w-w1 = (hip circ/2) *k
then find the point halfway between w and w1 and label it w2
square down from w2 to separate back and front.
Divide the segment w-n in 3 even sections and square across from the points: this way we identify upper hip line and lower hip line.
Then draw the waistline
w-w3 = (waist circ/4) *k
w1-w4 = (waist circ/4) *k
square up 1,2 to 1,5cm from w3 and w4 and redraw the waistline as shown.
Brief construction
On back, divide segment n-f in half and mark point a.
a-b = (hip circ/20) -0,5cm
a-c = 2cm
To draw leg opening, pick the point halfway in bottom hip section and connect it with a straight line to point b.
Divide the line in half and square down 1cm, then divide this space in half again and drop 0,5cm. Draw back leg opening passing through the points.
On front, divide segment n1-f1 in half and mark point e.
e-f2 = (hip circ/20) -2cm
f1-f3 = hip circ/20
f3-d = 1cm
n1-g = (hip circ/20) -1cm
Join the lowest side seam point to f2 with a straight line. Divide it in 4 even sections and raise perpendiculars as shown in the image (from left to right 3cm, 5cm, 5,5cm). Draw front leg opening passing through the points.
This way, you get a high waisted brief with maxi coverage.
Retro brief
Let’s see how to turn it into a retro, high waisted brief.
Drop waist point by 3cm on back and sides and 5cm on center front.
Redraw leg opening raising it up to low hip line, trying not to change the crotch/gusset area.
High waisted brief
For a baywatch style, high waisted brief, drop waist points by 5cm on center front and back and by 3cm on side seams.
Draw leg opening reaching top hip line, trying not to change the crotch/gusset area.
Classic brief
Classic briefs usually have a lower waistline.
Drop waist point up to high hip line, keeping a soft upwards curve in direction to side seam.
Leg opening reaches low hip line.
Basic brief
We love this basic brief because waist line and leg opening match the classic brief ones, but beck is a bit more open and flattering.
When drawing leg opening, try not to change front crotch part but reshape the back reducing by a couple of cm.
Cheeky brief
For a more cheeky brief, keep waist line at high hip line, keeping a soft upwards curve in direction to side seam.
Reduce gusset width by 1 to 1,5cm on back and front along the previous line and find points c’ and d’.
On back, point 4 is located halfway between low hip line and hip circ, and the width is
4-4′ = c-c’ + 1,5 to 2cm
Side seam length is usually 4 to 6cm.
Bikini
The classic bikini has waistline dropped by 10cm from original waistline, and leg opening shaped as the person prefers (more or less coverage on back).
Boyshorts
Boyshorts have a center seam as trousers and extend slightly to legs.
On back, w-w5 = 2cm
then horizontal towards left n-c1 = (w-n)/4
draw a straight line from w5 to low hip line, then a soft curve to c1.
Draw a perpendicular to the curve 4cm long and mark c2.
Join c2 with the lowest point of leg opening with a straight line, then divide it by 3 and raise by 1cm. Draw the leg opening line slightly curved as shown.
On front, n1-f4 = (w-n)/4 -1cm
Draw a straight line from w1 to low hip line, then a curve to f4.
Square a perpendicular to the curve 4cm long and find point f5.
Join f5 to lowest point of leg opening, then find the midpoint of the line and square up 2 to 3cm, redraw front leg opening slightly curved.
Hipsters
Drop waistline approximately to high hip line – you can choose different heights, but center back should be 1,5 to 2cm higher than center front.
On back, c1 is halfway between c and b
Join points n and c1 with a curve.
On front, n1-g1 = 2cm
n1-n2 = 4cm
Join points g1 and n2 with a curve.
For the gusset, draw a vertical line first
n-n2 = measure n2-f1 from front
n2-g1 = 4,5 cm (or matching measurement to n2-g1 of front)
n-c1 = 3 cm (or matching measurement to n-c1 of back)
Brazilian brief
Measure down from high hip line 3cm on center back and front and 1,5cm on side seams, then draw the new waistline.
w-w5 = 2cm
n-c1 = (w-n)/4
Join points w5-c1 with a straight line from waist to high hip line, then with a soft curve to c1.
On point c1, square a perpendicular to the curve 3cm long and find point c2.
Join c2 to back side seam.
On front, reduce gusset width to 3cm, keep it consistent (or widen slightly) up to hip line, then draw leg opening to match back side seam length.
Thong
Measure down from high hip line 3cm on center back and front and 1,5cm on side seams, then draw the new waistline.
Reduce gusset width on back and front to 1,5cm.
On front, draw leg opening as shown (2cm at e line, 3cm at hip line, 9,5cm at low hip line).
T-string
From the thong, on a t-string front is half or one third of previous width.
Most part of the back is just elastic with no fabric involved, so after drawing the basic pattern trace the two pieces merged at crotch line. When calculating elastic for waist circumference, relate to the pattern measurement and identify the exact section where fabric should be joined.
