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SewingLab

Milano

SewingLab

Milano

Asymmetric bias cut dress

Pattern characteristics: asymmetry, bias cut, dart manipulated into slanted pleats, back cowl neckline, shifting side seam.

Style analysis: this elegant dress features a sophisticated and asymmetrical design, perfect for an evening or formal occasion. The dress has a draped, asymmetrical neckline with a single extended sleeve on the right side, while the left shoulder is sleeveless, enhancing the asymmetry. The fabric is pleated at the waist on the left side, forming a soft knot-like effect that creates flattering drapes and volume over the skirt area. The skirt falls into a soft, uneven hemline that is longer on the left side, adding to the dynamic and fluid silhouette. Also, the dress features a dramatic open back that extends down to the waist.

Fabric: silk satin or crepe, viscose or blended fabrics - but definitely something lightweight and flowy.

Step 1

Start by tracing your basic dress with 4 to 6cm wearing ease in each circumference (or you can increase/decrease it accoring to your preferences – but I suggest to add something because the dress is bias cut, so even a form fitting dress needs positive ease). Our method for drafting perfectly made to measure basic blocks and for fitting them in our basic blocks course/module 1.

Mirror front and back to have them full for the asymmetric styleline, then adjust length to 10cm above ankles.

On both front and back:

  • flare 5 to 10cm from sides at hemline, blending to hip level or above it
  • redraw left armhole taking in 3 to 4cm at shoulder and dropping 0,5 to 1cm at side seam (grey line)
  • raise right shoulder point by 1,5 to 2cm and redraw right shoulder line, then lengthen it by 6 to 9cm (green line)
  • draw the new neckline straight (orange line) widening from high shoulder points by 5 to 8cm on each side.

On back only, draw slash line separating bodice and skirt (blue line): start on left side seam at waist, draw a straight line to center back 5 to 7cm below waistline, then another straight line to 2cm past waist dart 2cm above waist.

On front only, draw the slash line for manipulating right shoulder dart: start from right bust point and connect to shoulder line 2cm past the new neckline point. Draw the cape sleeve (green line) from riased and lengthened shoulder point to side seam 6 to 8cm above waist.

Still on front, draw the asymmetric hemline with a point approx 20cm longer halfway in left skirt.

Step 2

Keep working on back:

  • draw a slanted line (red line) from left shoulder line at neckline point to last point of waist slash line (blue line)
  • from the same point (end of the blue line), draw a straight line to right shoulder line at the end of neckline
  • draw the last part of waist slash line from last point of the blue line ending at waist level on right side seam (green line)
  • draw the cape sleeve piece (orange line for the top part, pink for the bottom one) overlapping them by approx 3cm at shoulder blade level.
Step 3

Still on back, but now the skirt part:

  • erase darts and discard half of them from side seams and half from center back
  • draw the asymmetric hemline that is slanted on left part (red line), raise 10cm in center back, and straight on right part (orange line).

On front, cut through the dart manipulation slash line from right shoulder line to right bust point, then continue cutting all the way to left bust point. Cut also through front outer line to separate the whole piece.

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