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SewingLab

Milano

SewingLab

Milano

Asymmetric cape

Pattern characteristics: asymmetry, additional volume in gathers, cape construction with seam shift.

Style analysis: wrap asymmetric cape with mandarin collar, details at the pointy high low hemline and at buttoned shoulder.

Fabric: medium weight cotton, denim, twill, corduroy...

Step 1

Start from a basic block without darts, any wearing ease will work. Trace also the matching sleeve (don’t forget armholes notches!) and cut it through middle line.

*Our method for drafting made to measure basic blocks and sleeves is part of our basic blocks course/module 1.

Step 2

Merge back sleeve to back bodice by matching notches. Do not overlap sleeve head to armcye, notice that they are close to each other in uppermost section and create a gap in bottom section, and they overlap only at armpit/side seam (which is ok because the cape does not involve armpit at all).

Repeat the process for front bodice and sleeve, matching sleeve slope to back (as much as possible).

Sleeve head will be higher than shoulder point by about 1cm (for the cap ease that normally is needed in sleeves). Redraw shoulder line on both back and front from high shoulder point to uppermost sleeve point.

Step 3

Trace a copy of back and front whole blocks, including waistline (for reference, needed in next steps).

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