Start by tracing a copy of your basic bodice with darts and 8 to 12cm wearing ease at bust*. Mirror front for developing the asymmetric style, while you only need half back because it will be symmetric.

*You can learn our method for drafting perfectly made to measure basic blocks (contoured ones, and the ones with wearing ease) and for fitting them in our basic blocks course/module 1.

On both front and back:

• widen neckline by 2 or 2,5cm moving sideways from high shoulder point along shoulder line
• connect this new point to original center front and back with a straight line
• draw a parallel line 2,5cm above the previous line (collar width)
• square up 2,5cm from new high shoulder point to the new parallel line
• drop armpit by 1 to 3cm and widen from side seam 1,5 to 3cm depending on the fit you prefer (I suggest at least 14cm total ease at bust).

This type of collar requires constructional slash lines to give room for the neck:

• on back, draw a horizontal line from half armhole to shoulder blades (approx halfway in back width), then a slanted line to upper neckline, halfway to 2/3 of its length
• on front, draw a slanted line from bust point to neckline approx halfway in each part.

We’ll cut through the lines and add a small volume at neckline that will improve the collar fit.

But before that, let’s work on shoulder and armhole. On both back and front:

• raise shoulder point by 1,5 to 2cm
• connect new shoulder point to high shoulder point where collar starts, then lengthen line outwards by 5 to 8cm depending on the drop you prefer (red line and arrows)
• drop new outermost point by 1 to 1,5cm and redraw the line to new shoulder point (blue line and arrow) – this creates a little roundness that mimics shoulder shape
• redraw armhole to new armpit point (green line) – notice that new armhole is much flatter than original one, and blends into it in the bottom section not to be too much on the armpit
• draw the new hemline 5cm above hip level or at desired length.