Asymmetric dress with pleats


A complex pattern drafting (there are 24 steps!) to challenge yourself: it's an asymmetric dress with pleats in bodice and skirt, dolman sleeve constructions, shoulder seam shifted backwards and lots of details!

To draft the pattern, start from a basic block with darts (we suggest 8cm wearing ease on bust circumference, 4 to 6cm on waist one, 4cm on hip circumference) and matching sleeve. You can learn our method for drafting perfectly made to measure basic blocks and for fitting them in our basic blocks course/module 1.

Step 1

Separate bodice and skirt by cutting at waistline.

Cut sleeve in half and merge each part to its bodice:

  • back: space sleeve and bodice by 3 to 5cm at armhole notches (approx 10 cm below shoulder point). Try to keep armpit points at same level, it is ok if they are a bit apart
  • front: space sleeve and bodice by 1 to 2cm at armhole notches (approx 9 cm below shoulder point). It is ok if armpit points overlap a bit.

Notice that slope of back and front sleeve is different 😉

Step 2

Overlap a new paper to trace a copy of new front and back, then blend shoulder lines into sleeve lines with a soft curve.

Draw the sleeve hemline/dolman line from elbow level to side waist adding 10 to 16cm at armpit area.

Trace a copy of the new back and front.

Step 3

Start from back bodice:

  • measure 15 to 18cm from high shoulder point to draw the ‘yoke’ line that ends in center back 5 to 7cm below nape point
  • from nape point to 5 to 8cm above waistline in center back, draw the back keyhole opening. Discard approx 2cm at its fullest part
  • again, from nape point draw a line in direction to side seam, 8 to 10cm above waistline. Keep the line slightly curved to make sure it passes through dart apex

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