Start from a basic pant block with 3cm wearing ease at waist and 5cm at hips, 1,5cm vertical ease at crotch.
*Our method for demystifying wearing ease and drafting made to measure trousers is now available in our basic blocks course – module 3.

Trace back and front separate, then:

• on front, draw the belt loop position as a vertical line 5cm long, 2cm below waistline and 4cm from side seam
• on back, draw the belt loop lines: first one in center back, 5cm long, 2cm from waist; second one, 5cm long and 2cm from waist but 5cm from side seam
• still on back, draw the pocket line (marked in blue) 8 to 10cm below waistline, parallel to it, in the middle of pants width.

Then continue working on front:

• mark 2 notches on side seam (here in purple), first one is 5cm below waist, second one is 15cm below the first one
• draw also the pocket bag shaped as a D (here it is marked in red)
• and draw a facing (here marked in blue) as a parallel to side seam 5cm inside the pocket.

From front, trace:

• pocket bag, grainline parallel to pants grainline
• facing, from side seam to blue line, grainline parallel to pants grainline.

On back, shorten dart up to pocket line.

Trace a copy of front, including pocket notches, and draw a slanted line starting from waist 4 to 6cm from center to side seam 10 to 14cm below hip level. This line is where pleat will be on left front.

Erase original dart and draw a slanted one, matching to previous in length and width, using the pleat slash line as a starting point.