SewingLab

Milano

SewingLab

Milano

Asymmetric scarf jacket

Pattern characteristics: drop shoulder, asymmetric mandarin collar, asymmetric front.

Style analysis: short and boxy wrap jacket with left front extending over right shoulder and creating a scarf-like effect.

Fabric: twill, gabardine or other medium weight woven fabric.

Step 1

Start from a dartless block with 10 to 14cm wearing ease at bust and waist circ*.

Raise shoulder points by 1,5 to 2cm and connect to high shoulder point, then lengthen line by 9 to 11cm (red lines).
Drop new shoulder end by 1 to 1,5cm and redraw as the blue line to mimic shoulder shape.

Draw the new hemline 2 to 3cm below waistline, extend it on sides by 4 to 6cm past side seam and 10 to 12cm past center front.

*Our method for drafting perfectly made to measure basic blocks, choosing wearing ease and for fitting them is included in our basic blocks course/module 1.

Step 2

Square up 10 to 13cm from new side points (green lines) then move in 4 to 6cm to reach original side seam. We’re drafting square armholes and this is the lower part. Starting from new shoulder point, perpendicular to shoulder line, draw the upper part of the armhole with a very flat curve and end at side seam (red line).

On front, square up from the lengthened hemline. Lengthen neckline past center front with a slightly slanted line and meet the perpendicular coming from hemline (marked in blue).

Lastly draw the collar: measure neckline from back and front and draw a horizontal line as long as 2 times back measurement and 1 time front one (notice in the image that collar is only on the inner front and not on the one that wraps onto shoulder. Raise 1,5cm from front outermost point and connect with a very flat curve to center back, then trace the back section of the curve on the other side of center back line. Collar width is 2 to 2,5cm.

Step 3

Trace a copy of the collar and mark grainline perpendicular to center back. Don’t forget to notch at it and at shoulder.

Trace also front and back as they are, and another copy of front. On this last copy, lengthen hemline by 120 to 150cm and draw a parallel to it starting from high shoulder point. End the scarf with a right angle.

Back is cut on fabric fold, front have grainline perpendicular to hemline.

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