Start from a long basic dress without darts and 12cm wearing ease at bust and waist, 10 at hips – you can learn our method for drafting made to measure basic blocks and for fitting them in our basic blocks course/module 1.

Mirror back and front for the asymmetric style and mark the skirt length as follow (see the red notches):

• center back is 20 to 25cm below knee
• right side seam (on both back and front) is 5cm shorter than center back
• left side seam (on both back and front) is 10cm shorter than center back
• center front has two notches, right front is 5cm shorter than right side seam and left front 5cm shorter than left side seam.

Flare side seams (green lines) by 7 to 9cm at ground length to have slope balanced even on different hemline lengths, then square out from side seam points to the new side seam lines.

On front, draw 2 parallel lines to center front, each one is 1,5cm away from center front – these identify the button stand section.

Now draw the high-low hemline connecting the previous references (red lines).

Identify waist line (marked in purple) as it is the split line to separate bodice and skirt.

On right side of bodice (it is symmetric, so no need to work on both left and right here) draw the construction line for dolman sleeve:

• raise back high shoulder point so that the distance from new point to waistline matches front one
• raise back shoulder point by 2 to 3cm and connect to new back high shoulder point
• draw a slanted line on front starting from original high shoulder point and using the same slope of new back shoulder line.

Draw the slash line on front bodice starting from waistline 10 to 12cm from button stand, passing close to bust point and ending on new shoulder line 6 to 8cm from high shoulder point. Line is curved as a parenthesis.

Now let’s draw the collar:

• measure back and front neckline from bodice (from center back to center front) and draw a horizontal line as the sum of them, splitting them with a notch
• square up 3cm (collar width) from left edge, this is center back
• square up 1,5cm from right edge, this is collar slope, and draw a very flat curve up to the notch. This is the new front neckline
• draw a parallel 3cm above the collar line, then add 1,5cm for button stand.

Trace a copy of the new collar pattern and keep the notch that splits back and front.

From your masterpiece, trace the 2 button stands separately: left one is shorter, right one is longer. Mark grainline parallel to longer edge on both of them.