SewingLab

Milano

SewingLab

Milano

Asymmetric top with wide collar

Pattern characteristic: asymmetric construction in all details - sleeveless bodice on one side, off-shoulder on the other; asymmetric fastening; merging bodice to sleeve to create a cape collar on one side and an off-shoulder one on the other side.

Style analysis: short formal blouse with wide collar that exposes one shoulder, asymmetric closure.

Fabric: any woven, medium weight fabric will work. Denim for a more casual version, taffeta or duchesse (heavy satin) for a more formal one. In both cases, I would suggest to add lining and eventually interlining for more structure in collar area.

Step 1

Start drafting a basic bodice with darts and 10cm ease at bust, 8 at waist, 4 at hips. You can learn our method for drafting perfectly made to measure basic blocks (contoured ones, and the ones with wearing ease) and for fitting them in our basic blocks course/module 1.

Mirror both back and front for the asymmetric style, then:

  • on back, draw a straight line from right shoulder midpoint to left armhole 2 to 4cm below shoulder point (red line)
  • reshape center back discarding 1,5cm total from waist, blending to zero at shoulder blades and hip levels (blue lines) – we’ll reduce dart width later to compensate this amount
  • on front, draw the neckline from right shoulder midpoint to a point 2 to 4cm above left bust point, then draw the slanted line from this last point to center front at waist, and continue the line with the same slope by 5 to 7cm past waist (red lines).
Step 2

From bottom point of front edge (red line of previous step), draw a straight line to side seam – the line (here shown in green) can be horizontal or slightly slanted upwards (1cm) in direction to side.

Draw a matching hemline also on left part of front, then draw left front neckline from center front to left armhole 7 to 9cm below shoulder point (green lines).

Draw the hemline on back, matching levels to front side seams.

Step 3

Now trace a copy of the sleeve, make sure it has notches and cut it through the center. Merge front sleeve to left front bodice by aligning notches and trying to keep armhole and armcye close to each other at uppermost part, with no overlaps.

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