Trace your basic dress with 2 to 4cm wearing ease at bust and waist circ.

Highlight bust, waist and hip levels, then lengthen to ground.

Focus on bodice. Cut through waistline on both front and back.

On back:

• drop 8 to 10cm from nape point along center back for the new neckline
• drop 10 to 13cm more for back collar width
• find shoulder midpoint, then move out 3 to 4cm for the new shoulder line
• draw back collar shaping it as a bib
• draw back neckline from bottom collar line 1,5cm from center, to side seam 1 to 2cm below armpit point.

On front:

• draw new neckline from center front to shoulder, matching to back measurements
• draw new armhole, matching back measurement at side seam
• draw slash line for french dart from bust point to side seam approx 6cm below armpit.

Cut through neckline and armhole, then through front slash line and tape shoulder dart closed.

Smoothen neckline if needed.

Move apexes of both darts 2 to 3cm away from bust point (to avoid pointy breasts) and redraw dart legs to new apex.