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Basic corset with cups

4.5/5

Let's draft together a block for a corset with cups.

You can use it as it is for a top or bodice of a dress, or you can use it as a foundation corset in more structured dresses, as bridal ones.

In any case, we suggest to start from a basic block with darts and ZERO wearing ease (i.e. your exact body measurement, taken wearing only a bra). Also, we recommend to always make a muslin/toile to fit the garment, and this is especially true in this case. The muslin should be done with staytape at the neckline and underwire at cups (also foam if you plan to use it in the actual garment).

We suggest to use a non stretch fabric with lightweight interlining (fusible knit interlining or lightweight organza if you like non-fusible ones).

Step 1

Start from a basic block with darts and ZERO wearing ease (i.e. your exact body measurement, taken wearing only a bra).

Draw the bottom half of a circle whose center is nipple point and radius is half of distance from nipple to nipple minus 1cm.

Step 2

Make the waist dart 3cm wide all the way up to the circle – where dart and circle meet is underbust point.

Draw an outer line almost parallel to the half circle, 1cm outward in center front, 0,5cm (from 0,3 to 0,7 according to your cup size) outward at bottom,  1,5cm to 2,5cm outward at side.

Step 3

Extend the line of nipple height all the way to the side of circle. Raise 2 to 5cm at this point, according to the coverage you like and to your cup size.

On shoulder dart, measure up from nipple point the radius measurement minus 2cm. Widen the shoulder dart by 1cm at this point.

Step 11

Remember that we recommend to always make a muslin/toile to fit the garment, and this is especially helpful in this garment. The muslin should be done with staytape at the neckline (both cup neckline and side panel/back one) and underwire at cups.

We suggest to use a non stretch fabric with lightweight interlining (fusible knit interlining or lightweight organza if you like non-fusible ones). Cups can also be realized in foam and then covered in fabric.

It is nicer if fully lined with a natural fabric.

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