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SewingLab

Milano

SewingLab

Milano

Bell skirt with shaped waistband

Pattern characteristics: ultra high waist, shaped waistband with dart manipulation, volume at skirt added with side shaping + slash lines.

Style analysis: mini skirt with bell volume, no side seam at bottom part, shaped waistband continuing in a flattering V cut, front flap pockets.

Fabric: duchesse, heavy satin, denim, taffeta....all medium weight woven fabrics with a good structure and slightly stiff hand (to hold the shape).

Step 1

Draft this pattern starting from a dress block with waist darts (it doesn’t matter if it also has shoulder dart or not), 2 to 3cm wearing ease at all circumferences*.

On front and back:

  • choose skirt length (I suggest 15 to 20cm above knee level, but midi or maxi length would also be cool), marked here in pink
  • flare 10 to 15cm from side seams (see the small arrows)
  • on back, highlight underbust level (marked here in red), or choose where you want the waistband to end. Then match level on front at side seam and draw the shaped waistband upper line ending in center front 4 to 6cm above waist
  • on front only, draw a curved line (here in blue) starting from side seam, crossing dart close to its apex and ending in front hemline 2,5 to 4cm from center front.

*Our method for drafting perfectly made to measure basic blocks, choosing wearing ease and for fitting them is included in our basic blocks course/module 1.

If you’re new to our method, you can try our free pre-course to create a basic skirt pattern on your own measurements, then you can follow this tutorial to turn the basic pattern into this style!

Step 2

Now keep working on side seam, we need exactly the same shape on back and front:

  • square up from hemline, new side point, up to 8 or 10cm below waist
  • on front only, draw the uppermost part of the new side seam from previous point to original side seam at waist, line should be slightly curved and merge smoothly at pink side seam
  • trace shape on a separate paper, then flip it and trace it again onto back.

Then, still on front draw a line (here marked in green) parallel-ish to previous blue line, starting at new side seam at 6cm span from blue line and ending at hemline 4 to 5cm from blue line.

Step 3

Now draw on back two lines similarly shaped to front ones.

Cut through the uppermost lines or trace the whole skirt shape.

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