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SewingLab

Milano

SewingLab

Milano

Blazer with underbust gathers

Style analysis: this jacket features a tailored, feminine silhouette with a vintage-inspired aesthetic. Key details include a fitted bodice that is cinched at the waist, a matching belt, gathered bust details that create softness and a flattering shape.

Fabric: the textured material gives a warm and elegant look. Corduroy, velvet, wool are all great options. You can add fabric covered buttons for a timeless closure!

The jacket pairs beautifully with the matching skirt.

Step 1

Trace your back and front with darts with 10cm wearing ease at bust, 8cm at waist and 4cm at hips. Trace also the matching sleeve, then:

  • raise shoulder points by 0,5 to 1cm (depending on the shoulder pad thickness)
  • reduce back dart by 1,5cm total and discard it from center back, blending to zero at shoulder blades and hip level
  • draw new hemline 5 to 7cm above hip level and flare by 1 to 2cm at it, blending to waist
  • on front, draw button stand 2cm wide (red line, measure from center front outwards), then draw the rounded hemline at center front
  •  choose neckline depth and draw the roll line (blue line) from center front to a point 1,5cm past high shoulder point
  • draw the underbust style line (yellow line) and a slanted line parallel to roll line and at 4 to 5cm span from it.
Step 2

Then cut through new back line and erase old back dart lines.

On front,

  • lengthen roll line upwards by back neckline measurement
  • draw a line from high shoulder point parallel to roll line and as long as back neckline
  • rotate the upper point of this line towards left (outwards) by 2,5cm (blue arrow) and redraw the line (red line)
  • draw front pocket line from waist dart 4cm below waist to side seam 6 to 7cm below waistline.

Cut through front lines too.

Step 3

Here is back, ready, and front, to be manipulated a little more.

Cut through front underbust curved line and through front underbust dart. Tape shoulder dart closed and open a matching volume at underbust.

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