
Step 1
Trace your back and front with darts with 10cm wearing ease at bust, 8cm at waist and 4cm at hips. Trace also the matching sleeve, then:
- raise shoulder points by 0,5 to 1cm (depending on the shoulder pad thickness)
- reduce back dart by 1,5cm total and discard it from center back, blending to zero at shoulder blades and hip level
- draw new hemline 5 to 7cm above hip level and flare by 1 to 2cm at it, blending to waist
- on front, draw button stand 2cm wide (red line, measure from center front outwards), then draw the rounded hemline at center front
- choose neckline depth and draw the roll line (blue line) from center front to a point 1,5cm past high shoulder point
- draw the underbust style line (yellow line) and a slanted line parallel to roll line and at 4 to 5cm span from it.

