Bodice with gathers


Let's draft together the pattern for this bodice.

It can be a shirt or the upper part of a fitted dress. You can get a similar style by sewing it in silk satin, but actually any light to medium weight woven fabric will work. If you want to keep things easier when sewing, we suggest using a cotton popeline.

To draft the pattern, start from a basic block with darts and wearing ease according to the fabric you will use and the fit you like (we suggest minimum 8cm on bust circumference and 4cm on waist one). You also need a matching basic sleeve.

Step 1

Trace a copy of basic block.

First, draw the straight neckline on both front and back, then draw the new armhole on both, raising it by 3cm on shoulder line.

On front only, draw the underbust line and the panel line from underbust to hip line, extending the dart length up to this one.

On back, reduce waist dart and discard half of it from center back, then draw the panel cut.

Step 2

Cut through all lines to separate the pieces.

You get:

  • front and back armhole section
  • back bodice
  • 3 pieces for front bodice.

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