Trace a copy of your contoured bodice – our method for drafting made to measure patterns and a deep dive into corset construction in included in our basic blocks – module 2.

Highlight underbust and waist levels, then drop a parallel 12 to 15cm below waistline for the corset hemline. For a slightly rounder shape, you can raise 1cm further at side seams.

Draw the corset upper line starting in center back at right angle approx at armpit level, then curving downwards to reach side seam 4 to 5cm below armpit level. Continue the plunging shape on front starting at matching level on side seam and ending in center front approx 3cm below underbust line.

Cut through the corset upper line to separate cup area, then draw the cup this way:

• cup is 10 to 12cm from bust point above, mark the point on both dart legs
• from left (outer) dart leg, square 2,5 to 3cm for shoulder straps
• draw a soft curve from this point to corset upper line 3 to 5cm before side seam – make sure side coverage on breast is enough (we suggest 8 to 10cm, but measure on yourself)
• now go back to shoulder dart, right leg, and draw the neckline from shoulder strap point to corset upper edge 2 to 2,5cm from center front, depending on the cup span you prefer
• highlight shoulder and underbust darts (coming directly from your contoured bodice) and make sure underbust dart is as wide on cup as it is on corset upper line
• draw 2 additional darts, one from bust point towards center and one towards side, 0,5 to 1cm wide at cup edges to make cups more snug.

Focus on cup pieces. Trace them by separating center and side cup – they are split by shoulder and underbust dart.

The horizontal darts are to be taped closed, as you see in the bottom part of the image.