Pattern characteristics: asymmetry, built-in standing collar, cape sleeve.
Style analysis: this dress/top features a modern, asymmetrical loose design with a high-neck collar. One side has a cape-like sleeve that drapes over the arm, while the other side is sleeveless, creating a striking contrast in structure. The hemline is dramatically asymmetrical, extending down one leg while leaving the other exposed. The overall look is minimalist yet bold, perfect for a high-fashion aesthetic.
Fabric: medium weight silk satin or crepe. The fabric needs to be soft and fluid, allowing for an elegant flow.
Start by drawing a block with shoulder dart only, using half of its normal width – this is because we want the garment to be just a little fitted at the upper chest. Our method for drafting made to measurement patterns is fully explained in our basic blocks course/module 1.
On front, draw a slash line from bust point to armhole approx 6cm above armpit. This will create a temporary dart manipulation for drawing the collar.
Work on front first.
Cut through the slash line, tape shoulder dart closed and open a matching volume into the new one.
Then widen neckline by 3cm and draw a straight line from the new high shoulder point to center front (red line).
Square up 7cm from high shoulder point (blue line) perpendicular to red line.
Draw a line parallel to the red one starting at the upper edge of blue line to create the collar volume.
Then draw a slash line from center front at upper collar edge to bust point. Cut through the line and close armhole dart.
Now the dart volume shifted at its final position, the collar. Trace a copy of the whole piece blending the angle at shoulder.
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