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SewingLab

Milano

SewingLab

Milano

Bomber dress

Style analysis: cool pattern to be used as a dress or a coat. We saw it in the runway both in the long (slightly mermaid style) and short version and couldn't decide which was the most interesting one.
It features knit details as the shawl collar with plunging necklines and the high cuffs.
Additional interesting aspects are the dart manipulations: front bodice has them shifted into a slanted pleat, front skirt has a small side panel that creates the pocket.

Fabric: any medium weight fabric, this is a little shiny as heavy satin. We suggest solid colors.

Step 1

Trace your basic block with darts and at least 10cm wearing ease at bust, 8cm at waist, 6cm at hips.
Learn how to draft and fit a perfect made to measure pattern and how to choose the right wearing ease with our basic blocks course – module 1.

Cut through waistline to separate bodice from skirt, then move shoulder seam forward this way:

  • raise back shoulder line by 2cm
  • drop front shoulder line by 2cm.

Trace the sleeve too, make sure it has notches and cut it through its middle line.

Step 2

Trace a copy of front bodice to the new shoulder line, then draw the slash line (red) for manipulating darts: line starts from bust point and ends in center front at waist.

Draw also the new neckline (in light blue) from high shoulder point to center front at waist. This line is slightly rounded (you can imagine a straight line, find its midpoint and move left 1cm or so to find a nice curve).

Lengthen center front line 3cm past high shoulder level, then connect this point to high shoulder point (light blue line on top).

Cut through the line to separate front bodice from front collar.

Step 3

Here you see the two separate pieces:

  • collar, has to be straight on right edge because it will be placed on folded knit fabric
  • front, cut through the slash line and tape shoulder and waist darts closed.

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