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Bomber jacket with asymmetric collar

4.5/5

A cool jacket perfect for spring, that can be sewn quite quickly and left unlined (even though we recommend finishing seam allowances with bias binding for a high-end effect).

Start by tracing a copy of your dartless bodice for drop shoulder, and follow these simple steps.

Step 1

On back, raise high shoulder point by 1cm and shoulder point by 1,5cm, redraw shoulder line and extend it outwards by 4 to 6cm.

On front, balance what was done on back: drop high shoulder point by 1cm and shoulder point by 1,5cm, redraw shoulder line and extend it outwards by 4 to 6cm.

Step 2

On both front and back drop the new shoulder point (for drop shoulder) by 1 to 1,5cm and draw a gentle curve merging to shoulder line.

Straighten bodice from armpit point (making sure wearing ease is at least 10cm on bust circumference).

Step 3

Drop armpit point by 6cm and move it outwards by 4cm to get a looser fit.

Redraw the armhole.

Step 4

Draw the patch pocket with flap on front, then work on right front.

Here, collar is drafted as the red lines:

  • add 4cm to center front for button stand/overlap at waist, then move outward to find collar edge (we suggest 5cm up and 1,5cm outwards to find starting point of roll line, to be connected to high shoulder point)
  • from the roll line, draw the collar as you would like to see it (it will fold on roll line, so you can try folding the pattern on it to check how you like the shape.

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