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Bridal flared dress

4.5/5

Let's draft together the pattern of this vintage bridal dress.

It gives its best if reproduced in a stiff fabric, as silk mikado, duchesse or taffeta. I would also suggest to insert horsehair braid in the hem, for extra support to the flare.

Of course you could decide to make a shorter version, and it would be an amazing cocktail dress!

It features a shaped high waist, almost an empire cut at the front, a kimono sleeve with gusset and a flared skirt.

Step 1

Start from a basic block with darts and appropriate ease allowance.

On center front, lower 8-10cm and start drawing the line that will separate bodice and skirt. Keep it slanted, slightly rounded until you come on the side seam a couple of cm above the waist.

On the back, finish drawing the line from the same point on the side seam merging to the natural waist around the dart.

Square down from the apex of the darts and divide the skirt with slash lines to -later- add volume.

Step 2

Extend the basic block with the length from the waist to the ground.

Then extend the center back by the length of the train (we suggest around 40cm, but it’s totally up to you), and draw the bottom curve without changing the length of center front. According to how long your train is, you might need to extend the side seam a bit – as you see here.

Step 3

Separate the bodices and the skirts by cutting through the new waist/underbust line.

Step 4

Get the bodices and a matching sleeve. The armhole and sleeve cap measurements must be identical.

Cut the sleeve in its center.

Step 5

Let’s work on the back first.

Discard the dart by eliminating it from center back.

Measure 5-6cm from the armpit and find the same point on sleeve cap and armhole. From this point, draw the gusset line on the sleeve and the side panel line on the bodice.

Cut through the lines.

Step 6

Align the sleeve to the bodice by matching sleeve cap and armhole.

Redraw the bodice as a whole new block, without the dart and the armhole – you got some sort of kimono sleeve.

Keep the sleeve gusset and the side panel.

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