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SewingLab

Milano

SewingLab

Milano

Caban with built-in scarf

Pattern characteristics: drop shoulder 2 pieces sleeve, built-in bias cut scarf.

Style analysis: loose fit caban jacket with asymmetric closure and side slits above waist. The built-in bias cut scarf starts from shoulder line.

Fabric: wool or wool blends (woven fabrics). I suggest adding lining, and you might consider adding interlining for extra warmth.

Step 1

Start from a dartless block with 12 to 16cm wearing ease at bust circ and matching sleeve.

*Our method for drafting made to measure basic blocks (contoured ones, and the ones with wearing ease) and for fitting them is included in our basic blocks course/module 1.

Then, on both front and back:

  • raise shoulder point by 1,5 to 2,5cm and redraw shoulder line (see red arrow and line)
  • lengthen shoulder line by 12 to 15cm (green arrow)
  • drop new shoulder point by 2 to 3cm (blue arrow and line) and connect to previous point to draw the shoulder shape.

Still on front and back widen 3 to 5cm at side seam and drop 3 to 5cm from armpit level, then square down and draw hemline approx at hip level on front and 15cm below it on back. Mark notches on side seams 3 or 4cm above waist.

Step 2

Draw new armholes (notice that they are quite flat) and mark 2 notches on back armhole and 1 on front at different measurement.

Draw a parallel 3cm outwards from center front – this identifies the edge of right front.

Step 3

Trace copies:

  • back has 2 notches at armhole and a notch above waist, it is cut on fabric fold for no back seam
  • right front has a notch at armhole and a notch above waist, grainline is center front.

Don’t cut through the masterpiece – you’ll need it to draft the left front!

Measure armhole on both front and back and note them down.

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