Start from a basic bodice without darts (or just waist darts as shown) and 10 to 12cm wearing ease at bust circ. Trace also a matching sleeve.

On both front and back bodice:

• drop 3 to 4cm from armpit
• widen 3 to 5cm at new armpit level, then square down
• adjust length to 5cm above hips or desired measurement.

Cut sleeve in the middle to split front and back.

*You can learn our method for drafting perfectly made to measure basic blocks (contoured ones, and the ones with wearing ease) and for fitting them in our basic blocks course/module 1.

Merge front sleeve to front bodice and back sleeve to back bodice by matching armpit and cap notches. Leave 1 to 1,5cm ease in between bodice and sleeve at notch level. Try to match slope in between front and back.

Raise shoulder points by 1,5 to 2,5cm, then connect new point to high shoulder point and to wrist.

Trace a copy of front and back blocks, then round the angle at armpit.

Draw a vertical line 10 to 12cm past center front (double breasted closure), starting from hemline and squaring upwards 20 to 24cm – the uppermost point is first button level.

Measure 1 to 1,5cm inwards from high shoulder point on front and connect it to first button level. This way you get the break line (where front folds back to create the lapel). See where this line intersects center front – this will be neckline depth. You can adjust it by raising or dropping first button level, and by increasing or decreasing the double breasted overlap.

Measure back neckline and extend break line upward by that measurement.