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SewingLab

Milano

SewingLab

Milano

Cape with built-in mandarin collar

Let's draft together the pattern for this dressy cape.

It features panel cuts in front and back and an interesting built-in mandarin collar.

Any coat fabric would work for this, but I would love to sew it in something a bit hairy as alpaca or cachemire.

I would also add inseam pockets (I love pockets!).

You can learn our method for drafting perfectly made to measure basic blocks (contoured ones, and the ones with wearing ease) and for fitting them in our basic blocks course/module 1. You will learn in depth also how to manipulate darts, add volumes and a lot of pattern transformations that will take your pattern making skills to a higher level.

Step 1

Start from a basic block without darts and loose ease on bust circumference – something like 18cm on total circ.

Extend front and back up to the desired length, then draw the button stand as a parallel 3cm outwards from center front.

Mark waistline on back and front.

Step 2

Widen back and front neckline by 1cm.
Lower back neckline in center by 0,7cm and redraw the shape. Cut on the new line and measure it.

Starting at right angle from front shoulder line, draw a perpendicular to it with back neckline measurement.

Square up by 4 to 5cm (collar height) and draw a curved line up to center front.

Step 3

Rotate the collar backwards to make it fit better:

  • first draw the perpendicular to collar from high shoulder point
  • then cut through this line and open 2cm on collar edge, so that the back part of the collar rotates outwards (to your left)
  • lastly redraw the collar outer shape merging to front button stand.

Make sure you keep center back collar at right angle to back neckline and collar edge.

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