Step 1
Start by tracing a copy of your basic block with darts and dividing it at waistline.
Let's draft together the pattern for this coat. It is an interesting one since it has a double breasted collar with big lapels, pleats from the waist and statement sleeves with an unusual volume.
To draft the pattern, start from a basic block with darts and appropriate ease to the fabric you will be using. We suggest a medium weight wool, maybe fused with interlining for a bit more support (especially on bodice). You will also need a matching sleeve.
Start by tracing a copy of your basic block with darts and dividing it at waistline.
In bodice section, manipulate darts into a princess cut:
Get skirt pieces and draw some vertical slash lines for pleats.
The first slash line starts from dart apex and is parallel to center back, the second one is closer to side seam.
Cut through all slash lines and remove dart volume.
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