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Coat with pleats and statement sleeves

4.5/5

Let's draft together the pattern for this coat. It is an interesting one since it has a double breasted collar with big lapels, pleats from the waist and statement sleeves with an unusual volume.

To draft the pattern, start from a basic block with darts and appropriate ease to the fabric you will be using. We suggest a medium weight wool, maybe fused with interlining for a bit more support (especially on bodice). You will also need a matching sleeve.

Step 1

Start by tracing a copy of your basic block with darts and dividing it at waistline.

Step 2

In bodice section, manipulate darts into a princess cut:

  • pick a point somewhere halfway in shoulder line
  • then draw the slash line to bust point in front and to dart apex on back
  • cut through the back slash line to separate center back and side back panel discarding the dart
  • cut through front slash line, close previous shoulder dart and get center front and side front panel.
Step 3

Get skirt pieces and draw some vertical slash lines for pleats.

The first slash line starts from dart apex and is parallel to center back, the second one is closer to side seam.

Cut through all slash lines and remove dart volume.

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