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Cocktail dress with bones

4.5/5

Let's draft the pattern for this fitted dress. It features a corset-type of bodice with bones and a pencil skirt.

You can sew it in any medium weight fabric, with or without stretch. Bones need a bit of support so we recommend to add an interlining that provides extra structure. You can create bonecases within the seam allowances to insert bones without any visible topstitching.

To draft the pattern, start from a fitted basic block with darts and zero wearing ease.

Step 1

On basic block, draw the new neckline and the waist cut on both front and back. Taper also the skirt at knee from side seam.

On front, widen the shoulder dart by 1cm at the new neckline to make it tighter to upper chest. Shape the waist dart at underbust level to fit the bodice to the ribcage. For the same purpose, shape the bodice side seams slightly inward and shape center back.

Step 2

Cut through all lines so you get back and front bodice + back and front skirt.

On both skirts, square down from dart apex and cut through the slash line.

Divide back bodice into 2 pieces by cutting the dart volume away.

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