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SewingLab

Milano

SewingLab

Milano

Cocktail dress with cowl neckline

Style analysis: midi dress with open back and halter neckline. The front has a fitted bodice that accentuates the waist, while the skirt is slightly flared and gathered, creating a flowy and elegant silhouette. The most interesting part is the neckline that drapes on back creating a cowl. Thin shoulder straps hold back neckline and frame upper back.

Fabric: chiffon or georgette for the outer layer, crepe or satin for the inner layer. The light fabric gives the dress a delicate and sophisticated appearance.

Step 1

Trace back and front separate (I suggest 2 to 4cm wearing ease on bust and waist circumference).
Learn how to draft and fit a perfect made to measure pattern and how to choose the right wearing ease with our basic blocks course – module 1.

Drop a parallel to waistline 10cm below it.

Highlight bust level.

Draw back neckline 2 to 4cm below armpit at side seam and 8 to 10cm lower in center back.

Draw front neckline at matching measurement at side seam, then create the halter neck dropping 1 to 3cm from original neckline in center front and moving 8 to 10cm sideways.

Draw also the shoulder strap from neckline angle on front to shoulder line midpoint, then on back from matching point to 2 to 4cm before side seam.

Step 2

Cut through the line that separates bodice from skirt.

Flare skirt by 5 to 8cm at side seam, blending to zero at waist to hip section.

Step 3

Focus on back bodice: at new neckline, widen dart by 0,5 to 1cm on each side.

Draw the cowl line (straight, then the fabric being free will drape) from shoulder midpoint to center back 20 to 25cm below nape point.

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