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Cocktail dress with statement sleeves

4.5/5

Let's draft together the pattern for this fabulous spring dress.

It features a deep V neckline, gathered skirt and statement sleeves.

To draft the pattern, start from a basic block with darts.

You can sew it in any light to medium weight fabric with crisp or stiff hand, so that gathers will stand more. It can be stiff cotton, gabardine, taffeta, silk twill, organza with underlining...

Step 1

Trace a copy of back and front and adjust the length to 3/4.

Draw the underbust line lowering from bust point as half of bust distance minus 1 or 1,5cm.

Raise shoulder point along shoulder line by 2 to 3cm, then redraw armhole.

Draw the new neckline widening it by 4 to 6cm along shoulder line, then lower 3 to 4cm in center back and draw the deep V in front up to underbust line.

Step 2

Cut through all slash lines, then draw the curved slash lines for princess cut in front and back bodices.

On front, draw an additional dart 1cm deep from neckline to bust point. This helps the neckline sit tighter to the chest.

Double the skirt with for the volume needed for gathers (you can vary the amount according to the fabric you are using).

Step 3

Trace all pieces separately.

Notice that in center front bodice, the darts were manipulated all at underbust.

Mark the grainline on all pieces.

1956

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