Pattern characteristics: deep V neckline, gathered skirt and statement sleeves.
To draft the pattern, start from a basic block with darts.
Fabric: You can sew it in any light to medium weight fabric with crisp or stiff hand, so that gathers will stand more. It can be stiff cotton, gabardine, taffeta, silk twill, organza with underlining...I would choose silk faille or taffeta, as they have a stiffer hand - this means they would hold the volume by themselves, without adding any inner structure to sleeves. If you choose a softer fabric, consider adding an organza layer as sleeve interlining to support the volume ;)
You can learn our method for drafting perfectly made to measure basic blocks (contoured ones, and the ones with wearing ease) and for fitting them in our basic blocks course/module 1. You will learn in depth also how to manipulate darts, add volumes and a lot of pattern transformations that will take your pattern making skills to a higher level.
Trace a copy of back and front and adjust the length to 3/4.
Draw the underbust line lowering from bust point as half of bust distance minus 1 or 1,5cm.
Raise shoulder point along shoulder line by 2 to 3cm, then redraw armhole.
Draw the new neckline widening it by 4 to 6cm along shoulder line, then lower 3 to 4cm in center back and draw the deep V in front up to underbust line.
Cut through all slash lines, then draw the curved slash lines for princess cut in front and back bodices.
On front, draw an additional dart 1cm deep from neckline to bust point. This helps the neckline sit tighter to the chest.
Double the skirt with for the volume needed for gathers (you can vary the amount according to the fabric you are using).
Trace all pieces separately.
Notice that in center front bodice, the darts were manipulated all at underbust.
Mark the grainline on all pieces.
Do you already have an account? Login or Recover your password now
