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SewingLab

Milano

SewingLab

Milano

Cocktail dress with tulip skirt

Pattern characteristics: asymmetric skirt obtained by merging front and back to create a 2 pieces skirt pattern, slash and spread + dart manipulation for pleat volume.

Style analysis: the dress features a structured bodice and a statement skirt with overlapping pleated panels in the front that create a petal-like shape resembling a tulip flower. The corset-like bodice combined with the pleating at the waist make it an elegant dress that enhances the silhouette.

Fabric: structured medium weight fabrics as taffeta, faille, haberdashery fabrics, denim...Lining is required only in the bodice section.

Step 1

Start by drawing a contoured bodice pattern (=pattern with darts and zero wearing ease), highlight underbust and make sure front waist dart is shaped to fit body at underbust/ribcage.

Draw a skirt with zero ease at waist and 6 to 10cm ease at hips (for the wide tulip shape). Draw front and back skirt attached at side seam, then mirror the whole block from center front line to get the full skirt (back, front, front, back). This is needed for the asymmetric styleline.

Step 2

Work on skirt first: adjust length to mid calf and mark knee level in center front to be aware of the overlap. At hemline, mark a point at 5cm span from center front on each side and connect each point to dart innermost point at the other side (it’s harder to write it than to do it, basically left point at hemline connects to right dart).

Highlight left and right skirt with different colors.

Step 3

On right skirt:

  • draw one slash line from center front at waistline to hemline 15 to 20 cm from center back
  • draw another slash line from a point halfway between center front and skirt edge at waist to hemline 15 to 20 cm from center front
  • redraw waist dart slanted so that its apex hits the first slash line
  • cut through the slash lines and tape front dart closed.

Then on left skirt:

  • draw a slash line from front dart outermost line to hemline 5 to 7cm past side line
  • redraw the other leg of front dart to have the dart slanted across the slash line
  • cut through the slash line and discard dart volume.

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