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Corset dress with drape

4.5/5

Let's see how to draft the pattern of this corset dress.

It comes from a basic corset with cups pattern whose instructions you can find here.

In this version, the outer fabric is draped but there's an inner layer providing the necessary structure. You can use satin for the outer one, and cotton drill or other twill weave as foundation layer.

Get a basic block with darts and zero wearing ease to start from.

Step 1

Start from skirt, full front and half back.

Taper the hem by reducing 2cm from sides, blending to hip line.

Step 2

Focus on front: draw the overlap.

First draw part 1 (orange line) from a point 10-15cm below hip line to center front on waist line. To draw a straight line, close the dart in a temporary way.

Then draw part 2 (red line), from hip notch to hem on the other side.

Step 3

Trace a copy of the two pieces separate.

On piece 1, manipulate the dart to close it.

On piece 2, draw 5 slash lines for the drape.

Step 4

Cut through the slash lines, close the waist darts and open the volume for drape (open twice the pleat depth you like, for example 6cm for pleats 3cm deep).

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