Corset dress with gathers


Style analysis: short gathered dress with foundation corset. Outer layer is a single piece with center front and center back seams (no side seams). To hold it, there's an inner structure to hipline: a corset with cups and bones. They are sewn together at neckline and a gathered flounce is sewn in center front seam as an extra detail.

Fabric: we suggest a non stretch, medium weight woven fabric as cotton twill for inner corset, and a light to medium weight, drapey fabric as crepe or satin for the outer layer.

Draft the pattern starting from a contoured block - you can find the instruction to draft it with our made to measure method, a full explanation on corsets and cups and much more in our basic blocks course/module 2.

Step 1

Trace back and front separate, then on front draw the bottom half of a circle whose center is bust point and radius is half of bust distance.

Step 2

Highlight underbust dart and make sure front waist dart is 3cm wide at underbust.

Step 3

Draw the neckline:

  • in center back it starts at right angle 1 to 2cm above armpit level
  • curves slightly downward to meet side seam 1 to 2cm below armpit level
  • starts on front side seam at matching level to back
  • raises and reach shoulder dart 7 to 10cm above bust point
  • plunges and ends in center front at underbust line.

Once you’re ok with the neckline, widen shoulder dart by 1cm at neckline.

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