Start from a contoured block (=basic dress with darts and zero wearing ease).

Our method for drafting it made to measure, as well as our tips on fitting and the main manipulation techniques are included in our basic blocks course/module 1. You will learn in depth also how to manipulate darts, add volumes and a lot of pattern transformations that will take your pattern making skills to a higher level.
A full explanation on corsets and much more is covered in our basic blocks course/module 2.

Highlight underbust level (here in light blue) and make sure your front waist darts are shaped to fit it, then draw the new neckline:

• start in center front 7 to 9cm above bust level (measure on yourself the favorite neckline depth) and square left until shoulder dart
• measure dart leg to neckline and replicate measurement to second dart leg, then draw a very soft curve to armpit or 1cm below it
• widen shoulder dart by 1cm at new neckline to have it tighter to chest and for a better fitting
• draw back neckline starting from side seam at matching level to front and ending in center back 2 to 4cm below the previous level for a flattering and gentle curve.

Lastly, draw inner skirt length (35 to 45cm down from waist) and flare 1 to 2cm from side seams, blending to zero in the waist to hip section.

Focus on bodice: first we are removing back waist dart and creating 2 smaller darts that act as slash lines to create panels:

• measure back waist (including dart width) and divide by 3, mark 2 dots and square up from them to neckline
• from each dot, move left and right 1/4 of back dart width at waist)
• connect each new point to the new points you found at neckline to have the two new darts (here shown in red).

Now move to front:

• reduce front waist dart width by the half
• draw a new slanted dart halfway between original front dart and front side seam. new dart is slightly slanted sideways better to support bust (apex is at neckline, 4 to 6cm from side seam). Dart can be a little curved.

Trace bodice pieces separate up to waistline (here marked in pink).

On each piece, mark grainline as a perpendiculaer to waistline and notches at bust level and underbust not to misplace pieces. For the same reason, I suggest to label them as soon as you trace each one. You get:

•  side front bodice
• middle front bodice
• center front bodice, without grainline because it is cut on fabric fold
• center back bodice
• middle back bodice
• side back bodice.