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Corset shirt with bishop sleeves

4.5/5

Let's draft together the pattern of this interesting corset.

It is full of details: a pleated cup, bishop sleeves, bones, a two pieces collar and button stand.

It offers some challenges also in the sewing process as it combines a sheer/lightweight fabric (as organza or organdis) and a stiffer one for the actual corset (twill, satin, duchesse, denim, gabardine...). We suggest to use also foam as inner layer for cups. You can find all the steps to draft the cup pieces explained here.

Start from a basic block with zero wearing ease and with darts. You also need a basic sleeve.

Step 1

On basic block, start from back. Reduce waist dart up to 1,5cm and discard the remaining part from center back.

Then draw the neckline from armpit to center back, either straight or – we prefer it this way – slightly slanted downwards to center.

Draw also the shoulder strap 1,5-2cm above shoulder tip. Make it 1-2cm wide.

Step 2

Cut through all slash lines to separate pieces. Discard the upper back section. You get:

  • center back
  • side back panel (mark notches for shoulder strap position)
  • shoulder strap
  • armhole section (that will be merged to the sleeve later)
Step 3

Now get the front and draw the button stand first. It is going to be 3cm wide, so draw a parallel to center front inwards by 1,5cm.

Then draw the bodice/cup as explained here. Adjust the dart to fit underbust circumference.

Lastly, draw the shoulder strap parallel to the armhole matching the measurements you used for back.

In this pic, the red lines shows the bodice pieces. Trace a copy of them.

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