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Corset top with contrasting details

4.5/5

Style analysis: corset top with straight neckline, underbust cut framing breasts and vertical cuts on bodice. Flared from waist to hip to emphasize hourglass shape, slanted cut on front. Accent lines in contrasting fabric to highlight style details and framing the whole top.

This version is sewn in woolen fabric - main fabric is a plaid, details are in crepe sablé - we would love also a version using twills, bouclé (Chanel-like fabric) or fabrics for suiting as pinstripe! In any case we recommend interlining to add some structure and full lining to conceal all seams.

To draft the pattern, start from a contoured bodice.

You can learn our method for drafting perfectly made to measure basic blocks (contoured ones, and the ones with wearing ease) and for fitting them in our basic blocks course/module 1. You will learn in depth also how to manipulate darts, add volumes and a lot of pattern transformations that will take your pattern making skills to a higher level.

A full explanation on corsets, drafting cups and much more is covered in our basic blocks course/module 2.

Step 1

Trace back and front separate, up to hip line or 5 to 10cm more, depending on the length you prefer. Highlight waistline and underbust line on front.

Measure down from waist 20cm along side seam, the move out 3 to 5cm and redraw side seam to this point, then draw the curved hemline blending it to the straight section approximately at dart level.

In center front at hemline, round a bit (2 to 3cm).

Step 2

Cut through the new hemline, then make sure waist dart is 3cm wide at underbust.

Step 3

Drop 1 to 2,5cm from armpit at side seam, then draw the new neckline:

  • in center back it starts 1 to 3cm lower than new armpit level and passes through dart apex
  • in front, raise 8 to 10 cm from bust level and square across from center front to first dart leg. Measure same distance on second dart leg and draw the section to side seam slightly curved. Widen shoulder dart by 1cm at neckline.

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