Start by tracing your contoured bodice (with darts, no wearing ease). Our method for drafting it made to measure as well as a full explanation on corsets is covered in our basic blocks course/module 2.

Highlight underbust line, then:

• on back, draw new neckline from side seam 1 to 2cm below armpit to center back 2cm below previous level
• still on back, widen upper part of waist dart by 0,3 to 0,5cm on each side to make corset tighter to chest
• on front, draw the sweetheart neckline from center front (approx 2cm above bust level) to 1cm before armhole, making sure you have a good coverage above breasts
• still on front, redraw the armhole bottom part from neckline to side seam, matching level to back
• again on front, widen shoulder dart by 1cm at new neckline and make sure waist dart is shaped to fit underbust circumference.

Mirror front as we’ll need it to draw the asymmetric cape.

Get the basic sleeve and merge it in a temporary way to front and back by matching armhole notches.

Draw the cape (purple line) this way:

• start in center back at underbust
• raise the line to meet back armhole 3 to 5cm above armpit level
• raise a bit further before reaching front armhole
• continue the line exactly on corset front neckline
• then extend the line a little further until you meet the other front waist dart (approx at underbust level.

Draw the cape lower line by starting in center back 6 to 8cm below previous line, then space the lines a bit more (14 to 18cm at front sleeve/front corset) and end in front waist dart 6 to 8cm below previous line.

Trace a copy of the cape making sure to mark:

• back dart, that must be closed
• front shoulder dart, to be closed too
• 2 notches: one where front neckline ends (right before armhole) and one in center front.

No need to trace front waist dart as the cape will be loose at underbust.