Trace a copy of your contoured bodice up to hipline, then shorten it drawing the new hemline:

• straight, 4 to 5cm below waistline on back
• slightly curved and slanted downwards on front, from 4 to 5cm below waist on side seam (match to back measurement) to 10 or 12cm below it in center front.

Then on front draw underbust dart (drop from bust point as half of bust distance minus 1 to 1,5cm) and widen waist dart so that it it 3cm at underbust. Shape waist dart as a rocket 😉

You can curved side seams slightly inwards (shaping as parenthesis) if you need the bodice to be more fitted. We suggest checking a mock-up first.

Drop 1cm from armpit at side seam on both front and back, then draw back neckline passing through back dart apex and ending with a right angle in center back.

On front, draw the bottom part of a circle whose center is bust point and radius is half of bust distance minus 1cm.
On side, raise the circle a couple cm more than armpit level, then draw the side part of neckline from circle to the new armpit point.

Now let’s draw the panels, starting from back:

• erase back dart and discard half of its volume from center back, blending to zero to original neckline
• divide waist measurement by 3, then draw 2 small dart whose total is as half of the original dart. This way you identified 3 panels.

Then move to front and draw a line parallel to center front and 3 to 4cm away from it for dividing first and second panel, then widen dart so that it is 3cm all the way through. From dart to side seam is third front panel.