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SewingLab

Milano

SewingLab

Milano

Corset with inner bra

Style analysis: strapless and fitted corset with style lines that emphasize the hourglass silhouette. There is an inner bra with sweetheart neckline, while the corset itself is open at bust creating an interesting neckline detail. The waist is cinched and a dramatic peplum-like flared detail at the hips creates a structured and elegant look.
The back closes with a zipper, but you cold also go for lacing as classic corsets.

Fabric: a quilted base fabric with intricate bead and pearl embellishments, adding a luxurious texture and shine. Any other medium weight, non stretch fabric will work. You can use a single fabric for a plain look or combine two or more different fabric to highlight style lines.

Step 1

Trace your contoured block (our method for drafting it on personal measurements, together with a full explanation on corsets and cups is covered in our basic blocks course/module 2).

Draw a circle whose center is bust point and radius is half of bust distance minus 1cm.

Highlight underbust dart and make sure front waist dart is shaoed at underbust to meet your circumference.

Step 2

We’ll start drawing the inner bra that holds the corset.

Draw a line 3cm below underbust, this is bra hemline.

Draw top, center and side cup pieces as explained here:

  • make sure you have enough coverage above bust point (we suggest at least 7cm)
  • here you see in red the top cup, shoulder dart widened at neckline, and in pink side and center cup.
Step 3

Draw the frame (green line), which is the bodice part up to wire, where cup will be attached:

  • on the circle, measure up from center cup as the top cup measurement at center front (blue arrows) and mark a notch. This is where inner bra ends at center front.
  • draw the side by widening from the circle as your underwire shape (this will make fitting much better, avoiding fabric to wrinkle)
  • drop 2cm from armpit and draw the side neckline.

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