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Cropped shirt with puffed sleeves

4.5/5

Let’s draft together the pattern of this cropped shirt.

We suggest to use a shirting fabric as popeline or another lightweight cotton.

Start from a basic block with darts and appropriate ease allowance (we suggest approx. 8cm across the whole bust circumference, but as always the amount depends on how fitted you like the shirt and on which fabric you are using, especially if it has some stretch or not).

Step 1

Work on front and back: draw the new neckline raising 4-5cm from the armpit. The back neckline will be straight, the front one will be slightly shaped: first choose how much you want to cover the bust (we suggest raising 7-8cm from bust point), then widen the dart by 1cm at that level, finish drawing the neckline lowering it a bit in center front.

On front only draw the underbust line (8-9cm underneath bust point).

On both front and back draw the new hem line, straight 2-3cm above the natural waist on the back and side front, then curved to the underbust line in center front.

Step 2

Get the back and discard the dart from the side seam.

Step 3

Trace the new back removing all the unnecessary parts.

Step 4

Get the front and cut through the red lines: you should get two pieces.

The upper part will have two layers (the inner one, working as a lining, will hold the shape, while the outer one will be gathered to achieve the style in the photo).

Step 5

Once you have upper and lower front pieces, cut away also the darts.

Step 6

Trace a copy of the upper front, draw on it a couple of slash lines and separate the pieces by 2-3cm (keep the amount consistent on top and bottom).

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