Start from a contoured block with zero to negative wearing ease, depending on the fabric you’ll use – a full explanation on negative ease, stretch fabrics, corsets etc is included in our basic blocks course/module 2.

Then on back and front:

• draw the hemline (red lines) 13 to 15cm below waistline
• flare 1 to 1,5cm from side seams (green lines) at hemline
• draw the corset neckline/cutout bottom line: start in center back 4cm below armpit level, raise and meet side seam 2cm below it, continue on front at matching level, raise to meet shoulder dart 6 to 9cm above bust point and square all the way to center front.

On back only, widen dart upper part by 0,5 to 1cm total to reduce neckline slightly (orange lines).

On front only, widen shoulder dart by 1cm at corset neckline and blend to zero at bust point and shoulder line (blue lines). We always see the bottom part of this manipulation in cup and corset construction, while the upper section is more rare to find, but the purpose of this additional dart is the same – prevent the fabric from gaping.

On front, draw the square neckline (red lines) from high shoulder point, passing through original collar line in center front. Draw the double breasted closure lengthening the lines by 5 to 6cm past center front up to corset neckline.

Cut through corset neckline (purple line) to separate corset and top or trace separate copies.

Trace a basic sleeve, measure 5 to 7cm up from armpit level along front and back armhole and draw the new sleeve hemline (marked in red). Cut through the line or trace a copy.

So you have:

• back top, draw an additional dart 0,5 to 1cm wide at cutout line, ending at shoulder line and tape it closed
• back corset, cut through dart lines and discard dart to obtain center back and side back panel
• front top, tape shoulder dart closed
• front corset, shape waist dart at underbust to make it fitted (blue lines), then cut through dart lines from hemline to bust point and tape shoulder dart closed manipulating its volume all at underbust.