To draft the pattern, start by creating your basic block with darts – our method for drafting and fitting it is fully explained in our basic blocks course/module 1. We suggest to draft the basic block on your own measurements first, fit it, transfer any alteration to your pattern – this way you get a sloper! Then trace a copy (or multiple copies) of it.

A sloper is the starting point to draft any other style, as this one, without having to redo all the fitting process!

On the sloper copy, adjust length to ground, then erase back dart and discard:

• half of its width from center back, blending to zero to neckline and hip level
• half of its width from side seam, blending to zero to armpit and hip level or slightly above (2 to 7cm, to enter smoothly to hip curve).

On front, draw the new neckline from high shoulder point to center front at waist.

You see that back has no darts now.

Get front and cut through new neckline and waistline.

On front bodice, draw a slanted line from center front at waist to bust point. Cut through the line, then close both shoulder and waist darts opening their volume into the new slash line (if you don’t know how to do it, dart manipulation is also fully explained in our basic blocks course/module 1).

On front skirt, draw a slanted line from center front at waist to dart bottom apex. Cut through the line and manipulate waist dart volume in it.

See how front bodice and skirt have changed with dart manipulation?

Now:

• on front bodice, find armhole midpoint and connect it to bust point. Cut through the line
• on front skirt, draw one line from center front at waist to a point 5cm above hip level on side seam, then draw a second line from dart apex to a point 15cm below hip level on side seam. Cut through both lines.