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SewingLab

Milano

SewingLab

Milano

Draped dress with plunging neckline

Pattern characteristics: dart manipulation into drape at shoulder and at slanted waistline on front, drape into gathers in center front with extension and knot effect. Dart manipulation into center back gathers at skirt to highlight curves.

Style analysis: mermaid dress with plunging neckline ending in a knot, from which the draped skirt falls down. Padded shoulders.

Fabric: medium weight knits as ponte, or something with a little lurex for even more shine!

Step 1

Start by tracing a copy of your made to measure dress block with zero or negative ease, depending on the fabric you chose.
Our method for drafting made to measure dress blocks is part of our basic blocks course/module 1.

Then, on both front and back:

  • raise high shoulder point by 1 to 2cm (depending on shoulder pad height), redraw shoulder line and lengthen it by 1 to 2cm
  • redraw armhole merging to original armpit point
  • draw the slanted slash line at waist (marked in blue): start in center back 2 to 4cm below waist, end on side seam 2 to 3cm above waist, start on front side seam at matching level and end in center front at natural waist
  • draw the mermaid skirt taking in 2 to 3cm from side seams  and center back at knee, flaring 6 to 8cm at side seams at hemline and  center back hemline
  • on front only, draw the plunging neckline (marked in green) from high shoulder point to center front at waist and the knot (marked in orange) across center front waist, 1 to 1,5cm wide and 5 to. 6cm long.
Step 2

Focus on slash lines for bodice bottom part – they are marked in red:

  • lengthen bust line (marked in purple) 3 to 4cm past bust point
  • draw a slash line from knot uppermost point to bust point
  • draw another slash line from knot uppermost point to lengthened bust line
  • draw a third line from knot uppermost point to bottom part of armhole, 3 to 5cm above armpit
  • draw the fourth slash line from a point few cm above waist to side seam 5 to 6cm below armpit.

Neckline (marked in green) and waist slash line (marked in blue) come from previous step.

Step 3

Now focus on slash lines for bodice upper part:

  • draw a slash line from new shoulder line, 2 to 3cm from high shoulder point, to center front at knot upper part
  • draw a second slash line from shoulder line 3 to 5cm past previous slash line to lengthened bust line.

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