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SewingLab

Milano

SewingLab

Milano

Draped mini dress

Pattern characteristics: horizontal drape obtained with gathers at center back and side seams, draped cape obtained with shoulder and center back pleats.

Style analysis: mini draped dress, form fitting, with pleated asymmetric cape covering only one shoulder

Fabric: any lightweight knit as viscose jersey or silk jersey, lightweight lycra.

Step 1

Start from a basic dress with darts and zero or negative wearing ease. Mirror back and front for the asymmetric style.
*Our method for drafting perfectly made to measure basic blocks, choosing wearing ease and for fitting them is included in our basic blocks course/module 1.

On back and front:

  • choose skirt length (I suggest 15cm above knee)
  • take in 2cm from side seams at hemline and blend to zero at hips.

On back only:

  • measure 3cm from high shoulder point along left shoulder line and connect it to center back 15cm below nape point (upper red line)
  • lengthen shoulder line by 12cm past shoulder end (blue arrow)
  • drop 2cm at outermost point of previous line and connect to shoulder point (purple line)
  • connect cape outermost point to center back 8 to 10cm above waist (bottom red line).
Step 2

On front only:

  • measure 3cm from high shoulder point along left shoulder line and connect it to opposite armhole 8 to 10cm above armpit level (upper red line)
  • as done on back, lengthen shoulder line by 12cm past shoulder end (blue arrow)
  • as done on back, drop 2cm at outermost point of previous line and connect to shoulder point (purple line)
  • connect cape outermost point to opposite side seam 8 to 10cm below armpit level (bottom red line).
Step 3

Trace cape pieces from back and front (include darts).

On front, cut through dart lines and tape them closed. Highlight center front which will be the grainline.

On back, divide center and shoulder line in 5 parts to draw 4 evenly spaced lines.

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