Trace full back and front, adjust length, then highlight waistline.

On front widen right waist dart at underbust making it 3cm wide and shaped ‘as a rocket’ above waist, as you do in contoured blocks.

Draw the cutout:

• on right side seam it starts at waist and is about 8cm wide (at most it can reach underbust level, or keep it a bit lower if you want it to cover a bra band)
• on both back and front it extends all the way to left waist dart
• cutout bottom line is straight as waist
• cutout top line is curved downwards from side seam towards dart, make sure darts are clodes when drawing the line for a smooth transition.

Raise a parallel to back left shoulder line by 2cm – this is the button stand.

Get front and draw the slash lines (from the cutout in anticlockwise direction):

1. from right side of left waist dart 3 or 4cm above waist to right bust point
2. from left waist dart, same point as before, to right high shoulder point
3. from left waist dart, same point as before, to left high shoulder point
4. from left side of left waist dart 3 or 4cm above waist to bottom part of left armhole, 3 to 5cm before armpit point
5. from left waist dart, same point as before, to left side seam approx at underbust level.

Square down from left waist dart to hemline.

Trace a copy of bodice upper part.

On the copy, cut through the lines and close shoulder darts, transferring their volume to the new slash lines.