Start from a dress block with zero to 4cm wearing ease at bust circ, zero to 2cm at waist circ, zero at hips.
*Our method for drafting perfectly made to measure basic blocks, choosing wearing ease and for fitting them is included in our basic blocks course/module 1.

On back and front:

• adjust length (either mini, at knee, at mid calf or to ground, depending on the style you prefer)
• flare 2 to 4cm at hemline at side seams, blending to zero at hips
• redraw armhole taking in 1,5cm from shoulder point, then mark a point 5cm inwards from it.

On back only:

• highlight waist as slash line
• take in 1,5 to 2cm from center back at waist, blending to zero at shoulder blade level (halfway in armhole depth)
• draw back neckline straight 8 to 10cm below nape point
• draw back shoulder strap as shown, ending at a point at armhole.

On front only:

• draw the V shaped waistline, curving slightly from side seam at waist to center front 15cm below waist
• redraw waist dart slanted, starting from waist 8 to 10cm from side seam and ending at armhole 5cm above armpit level.

On front skirt, square down from innermost new dart leg to hemline (this is pleat position).

On front bodice, lengthen center upwards and square from shoulder strap point to center front to have a right angle that creates the cowl neck.

Cut through (or trace copies of) back and front waistline, through front waist dart, front neckline, back shoulder strap to separate pieces.

Let’s focus on bodice:

• merge side front to side back
• rotate back shoulder strap to merge it to front
• mark bias line on front (45° angle to center front).

See how pieces are at the bottom of the image. Trace new copies of them.