Dress with cutouts and gusset sleeve


This dress has lots of interesting details, but its main characteristic is the gusset sleeve.

The best choice is a knit (cotton jersey would look great, but also other plain knits as viscose or polyester ones) to be sewn with stretch stitches as overlock or similar ones. To draft the pattern, start from a basic block with darts and zero to negative ease according to the amount of stretch your fabric has - if you're interested in drafting patterns with negative ease, we deepened the topic throughout all lessons of our basic block course/module 2.

Step 1

Trace a copy of your basic block with darts. Draw underbust line and widen front waist dart so that it is 3cm at underbust.

Adjust length to desired measurement, then flare slightly from sides (10 to 20cm), blending to zero at hipline.

Step 2

Draw a slanted line approx at underbust level identifying a small triangular shape that will be removed to create the cutout – make sure front and back measurements match at side seam.

Step 3

On back bodice, erase upper part of waist dart and discard a matching measurement from center back.

Draw the new neckline:

  • on back, square from shoulder point all the way to center back
  • on front, close shoulder dart in a temporary way and connect shoulder point to center front where slanted slash line is.

Cut through the lines to separate bodices and skirts.

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