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Dress with pleated statement sleeves

4.5/5

Style analysis: wrap dress with dramatic pleated sleeves.

Pick a fabric that is structured enough to hold the pleated volume, as taffeta or triple organza, or pick a light to medium weight fabric and back it with tundra or organza for adding structure. We don't recommend adding fusible interlining as it would give more weight than support.

To draft the pattern, draw a basic dress with 2 to 4cm ease on bust and waist circumferences (depending on the fit you prefer and the fabric you use) and 10cm ease on hips. Learn more about wearing ease, our method for drafting made to measure patterns, fit them and manipulate them into other styles in our basic blocks course/module 1.

Step 1

Start by tracing front and back separate.

Adjust length to 10cm above knee, then flare 10 to 14cm from sides. Blend to zero at waist.

Drop 6 to 8cm from nape point in center back and square across 10cm to draw the new neckline. Draw a line from this point to hemline 5 to 7cm away from center.

On front, drop 2 to 4cm from neckline and repeat the same (square across and draw the line all the way to hem).

Step 2

Now let’s work on darts – on back and front waist darts are manipulated the same way:

  • measure back dart width at waist
  • divide the amount in half and draw a first dart slightly closer to center back, apex is the same of previous dart
  • move sideways 5 to 7cm and draw the second dart, apex is still the same
  • erase bottom section of dart as the open dart create the pleat on skirt
  • repeat the same for front.
Step 3

Draw the neckline and armhole for the foundation dress:

  • neckline startss 1cm below previous neckline (to be hidden) and ends halfway on shoulder line
  • from neckline point on shoulder, move sideways 4cm and draw the new armhole to original armpit point.

Do it on both back and front.

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