Dress with raglan sleeves and open back


Let's reconstruct together the pattern for this amazing Christian Dior dress worn by the fabulous Rihanna.

It features a raglan-kind of sleeve, but the back is open.

You can sew it in any medium weight fabric. It requires a bit of structure so think about adding an interlining (either fusible or non fusible).

Start from a fitted basic block with darts and ease allowance according to the fit you like and the fabric you are using (it could be something like 8cm on bust circumference, 6cm on waist one, 4cm on hip).

Step 1

Trace a copy of your basic block.

First, flare the hem by 3-4cm on sides and center back. Then shape center back by 2cm at waistline.

Draw the new neckline:

  • on front, draw the deep V neckline, the princess cut ending at armhole for dart manipulation and the raglan-like cut
  • on back, from armpit to center, very slightly curved. Then, discard 1cm from the dart extending it up to neckline. Draw also back collar.

Merge back collar to front neckline.

Step 2

Here you see that back collar is now part of front. Draw a slash line on it to open a pleat, then draw one more slash line from armhole to shoulder line.

Close shoulder dart opening its volume to princess cut.

Draw button stand moving 3-4cm outward from center front.

Step 3

Cut through the lines to separate all pieces. This is what you should get.

Cut through waist dart and slash line coming from dart to hem.

Step 4

Spread front pieces adding 2cm at bust point and keeping them joined at hem.

Draw an additional dart at neckline at bust height, 1cm deep, and close it. This helps neckline sit tighter to the breast.

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